Oman: a first-timer’s guide
Poised between the glitzy excess of the Emirates and the rigid conservatism of Saudi Arabia, Oman provides a winning introduction to the Middle East. Politica…13 Dec 2016 • Andy Turner insert_drive_file Article
The legend of Ubar (or Wubar) is one of the most persistent in the Arabian peninsula. The name seems originally to have referred to a region or a tribe in or near the Empty Quarter but later became associated with a legendary city – also known as Iram (or Irem) – which grew immensely wealthy as a result of trade between the coast and population centres inland to the north. According to the story as related in the Qur’an, the city’s rich but godless inhabitants were repeatedly warned to mend their ways by the prophet Hud, but ignored him – after which God destroyed the city, which collapsed back into the sands, never to be seen again.
The first sign that the legend of Ubar/Iram might have a basis in historical fact was hinted at by English explorer Bertram Thomas, the first European to traverse the Empty Quarter in 1930–31 (a journey desribed in his Arabia Felix). Travelling north of Shisr, Thomas saw a series of “well-worn tracks”, described by his Bedu companions as the “Road to Ubar”, which they said lay buried under the sands, although no one could say where. A number of other explorers subsequently searched for the city during the 1930s and 1940s, but without success.
The trail then went cold until the 1980s, when American film-maker and amateur historian Nicholas Clapp had the bright idea of using high-definition radar imaging, carried on board the US Space Shuttle, to search for Ubar. A detailed satellite picture of the area in which Bertram Thomas had seen the “Road to Ubar” was slowly put together, and in 1990 a team including Clapp, British explorer Ranulph Fiennes and archeologist Juris Zarins set out to follow these leads on the ground. Some eighteen months later, they finally discovered the remains of an ancient trading town next to Shisr. The discovery made headline news around the world in 1992, while both Clapp and Fiennes subsequently wrote books about their part in the discovery. Whether the ruins at Shisr are in fact those of the legendary Ubar remains something of a moot point, however – and one that will probably never be fully resolved.
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