Himmeh is as far east along the Yarmouk as you’re allowed to venture, but with your own transport you can head west alongside a portion of the deep and dramatic Yarmouk Gorge (all buses go back up the hill to Umm Qais). The views on this tense frontier road are spectacular (even better looking east than they are looking west), gazing down into the Yarmouk, across to the Sea of Galilee and up to the Golan Heights. Drive slowly and remember you are under constant surveillance here from both the Jordanian army and the Israeli army; although you might be able to snatch a photo or two of the beautiful scenery, or of the wrecked bridge, bombed in the 1967 war and still hanging over the gorge, you may find the soldiers objecting. There are checkpoints every few hundred metres, for which you should always stop and show your passport. After 6km of this you come to a junction where the only option is to turn left, and this road delivers you after another 7.5km to the town of Shuneh ash-Shamaliyyeh (North Shuneh), at the head of the Jordan Valley, a pleasant enough little market town. It’s a short drive south towards Pella.

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