West of Turda, the main DN75 follows the River Arieş through a succession of small villages. A poor road leads 8km south from Buru to RIMETEA (Torockó; five buses daily from Aiud, one/two at weekends), which is famed, at least in Hungary, as one of the loveliest and most authentic of Romania’s Hungarian villages – although it was in fact inhabited by Saxons until most were killed by the Tatars. The village, prosperous due to iron mining, was rebuilt in Saxon style after a major fire in 1870, and even now furniture is painted in the Sighişoara style. The centre of the village is now a conservation area, where almost every home has rooms to let, while big modern pensions (and two new monasteries) stand on the outskirts. Traditional dress is worn for festivals on February 22 and the first Sunday of March, and can also be seen in the Ethnographic Museum, upstairs in the Primaria, along with mining tools, locks and keys, women’s red boots and an elaborate bridal headdress.

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