A forbidding silhouette of battlements and needle spires looms over SIGHIŞOARA (Schässburg to Germans and Segesvár to Hungarians); as the sun descends behind the hills of the Târnava Mare valley it seems a fitting birthplace for Vlad Ţepeş, “The Impaler” – the man known to so many as Dracula. Now on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, Sighişoara makes the perfect introduction to Transylvania, especially as Budapest–Bucharest trains stop here.
The Old Town or citadel is unmissable, dominating the newer quarters from a rocky massif whose slopes support a jumble of ancient, leaning houses, overlooking the steps leading up from Piaţa Hermann Oberth to the main gateway.