The Apuseni mountains lie largely between the Crişul Repede and the Arieş valleys, enabling easy access by public transport. The DN75 follows the Arieş west from Turda to Bihor county via Câmpeni, where the DN74 turns south to Alba, Brad and Deva. Câmpeni is the capital of the Moţi highlanders, who repelled the Roman invaders, then moved into the hills in the eighteenth century when the Habsburgs attempted to conscript them into the army; their settlements are some of the highest in Romania, scattered groups of high-roofed, thatched cottages at up to 1400m.

Despite opposition from the forestry and other industries – although the uranium and gold mines are now closed – the Apuseni Nature Park was established in 2004, alongside the revival of an excellent network of hiking trails. The Cluj-based Johan’s Green Mountain tour operator organizes a range of activities (hiking, cycling, kayaking and horseriding) mainly in the Apuseni mountains; they can also provide information and arrange homestays throughout the Apuseni.

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