Morsárdalur is the 10km-long, flat-bottomed glacial valley west of the Skaftafellsheiði plateau; you can get here either by following trails from Svartifoss, or along a flatter path direct from the Visitor Centre. The main target here is Bæjarstaðarskógar, a small wood of willows and birches, close to a sublime geothermal pool just big enough for two people. To extend the hike, continue up Morsárdalur and then bear west in front of little Morsárjökull glacier for Kjós, a strikingly beautiful canyon of bare, fractured boulders and sharp yellow crests.

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