The classic route up Mount Kérkis begins from Votsalákia, along the paved but narrow lane leading inland towards Evangelistrías convent. After a 45-minute walk through olive groves, the path begins, more or less following power lines up to the convent. A friendly nun may proffer an ouzo and point you up the paint-marked trail, continuing even more steeply up to the peak. The views are tremendous, though the climb itself is humdrum once you’re out of the trees. About an hour before the top there’s a chapel with an attached cottage for sheltering in emergencies, and just beyond, a welcome spring. All told, it’s a seven-hour return outing from Votsalákia, not counting rest stops.

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