For three days in mid-June a former paper factory in the steep-sided gorge of the River Riječina becomes the scene of Hartera (w hartera.com), one of Central Europe’s most intriguing rock festivals. Live music and DJ sets take place in a variety of postindustrial spaces, with the decoration of the stark halls of the factory taking a different theme each year. There’s a good mixture of top international names and local acts, and with capacity limited to around three thousand people the festival has an intimate, boutique feel. Check the website for deals on tent accommodation in the Hartera camp, and cut-price offers on hotels in Opatija.
Other major festivals to look out for include Rijeka Summer Nights (Riječke ljetne noći; July; w rijeckeljetnenoci.com), involving classical music, drama and dance in both indoor and outdoor venues throughout the city; and Summer in the Castle (Ljeto na gradini; Aug–Sept; information from the tourist office or on w bascinskiglasi.hr), a series of open-air theatre performances, film screenings and pop-rock concerts in the courtyard of Trsat castle.