The coast road climbs upward and inland east of Englishman’s Bay, passing through the diminutive community of Parrot Hall after about 3km before descending to reveal one of the most arresting views on the island: Parlatuvier is another crescent of pearly sand flanked by an absurdly pretty hillside scattered with palms, terraced provision grounds and ice-cream-coloured houses; you can get a great view over the village from the car park adjacent to the Glasgow Bar. The pier in the middle of the bay is testament to Parlatuvier’s dedication to fishing, as are the gulls that roost on the rocks at either side of the bay, patiently awaiting the return of the boats. Swimming here is a vigorous experience as waves are usually quite strong and the water deepens sharply from the sand; be careful as there is no lifeguard on duty, and what with the fishing paraphernalia, it’s not really a place to lay down a towel and sunbathe.

Top River Falls

Set up by enterprising locals, Top River Falls offers an easy-access cooldown. From the car park, a path winds down through frothy stands of bamboo to the river, from where it’s a five-minute walk along the bank to the waterfall, a three-tiered affair with two deep pools of clear, cold water. There are basic changing rooms at the bottom, and a couple of barbecue pits popular with local families who come and cook by the water. Soft drinks are available from the ticket booth at the entrance.

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