East of Castara, houses, shops and most of the traffic melt away, and the Northside Road is flanked by enormous tufts of whispering, creaking bamboo, broken occasionally to reveal marvellous jungle-clad hilly prospects. The next worthy beach, about 3km along the Northside Road, is Englishman’s Bay, hidden from the road by a thick cover of bush; look out for the blue and white sign, opposite a WASA building, marking a left-hand turn and the gravel track which leads to the beach’s small car park. Utterly ravishing and virtually undeveloped, the bay offers a perfect crescent of pure yellow sand, deep blue water and offshore reef – from the sea, the forested hillside appears completely untouched, as the bush drips right down to the sand. The bay remains delightfully remote, the quintessential “deserted beach” destination of many a pleasure boat cruise. For this reason, there have unfortunately been a few thefts from tourists at Englishman’s Bay; the crime and safety box, for some general advice when visiting Tobago’s more isolated beaches. There are no lifeguards here, but beach chairs can be rented from Eula’s.

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