Northeast of Plymouth, the dramatic and sparsely populated leeward coast feels more wonderfully remote than any other part of the island; here, the claim that Tobago is not just paradise, but the capital of paradise, begins to ring true, lapped by the Caribbean Sea and drenched in tropical greenery. Apart from at the lovely coastal village of Castara, tourist development is very understated, with the ravishing beaches at Englishman’s Bay, Parlatuvier and Bloody Bay much the same as they were decades ago. Locals still make a living off the land and sea: clusters of bobbing pirogues in every bay and seine nets drying in the sun reveal the importance of fishing to this area, and you’ll often see machete-wielding fellows trudging the route to small-scale plantations or meandering along with a pack of hunting dogs.

Although you might assume the most direct way to the leeward coast would be the coastal Arnos Vale Road from Plymouth, this is actually the slowest route, due to its twists and turns; a better (if less scenic) bet is to take the Northside Road up from Scarborough, which meets the coast just before Moriah.

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