If sightseeing in Manila on your own seems a little intimidating try Walk This Way, run by the highly entertaining Carlos Celdran (t 0920/909-2021 or t02/484-4945, w celdrantours.blogspot.com). Carlos takes weekly history-lesson-cum-magical-mystery tours around the city, and as well as the classic Intramuros circuit (P1200), there are tailor-made trips through different Manila eras (from P900). Also recommended is Ivan Man Dy of Old Manila Walks (t0917/329-1622, wwww.oldmanilawalks.com), who runs fun tours of Binondo, and the Malacañang Palace.

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