Most travellers come here for the wreck diving, which is superb, but there are plenty of peaceful, clean beaches inside the former base if you just want to chill out. Dungaree Beach (t047/252-4032) on the southern side of the airport is closest to the CBD, a tranquil stretch of sand and beach huts (P1500/day) shaded by trees; during most weekdays you’ll have it to yourself. Popular Nabusan Beach further to the south is being developed into a posh resort by businessman Antonio Tony “Boy” Cojuangco – day visitors may be allowed access for a fee, but check with the tourist office on the latest. The best beach in the Freeport Zone is Camayan Beach (formerly Miracle Beach) and now part of the Camayan Beach Resort (t047/252-8000, wwww.camayanbeachresort.ph) offering diving, snorkelling, kayaking and swimming; day visitors can access the beach for P300 (children P250).

Barrio Barreto has a scrappy beach that leads into the much nicer Baloy Long Beach, one of the better strips of sand in Luzon; locals charge a nominal entry fee of P30, but you can skip this if you stay the night.

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