Set amid picturesque scenery on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani, 50km east of Sweta, the small village of Tetebatu is a cool, but not cold, quiet spot for a few days of relaxation. From here you can rent motorcycles and hire guides for local treks. Guides can also be arranged at all the accommodation; the most usual trek is through rice paddies and the local monkey forest to Jukut Waterfall.

If you’re travelling here by public transport, get off the bemo or bus at Pomotong on the main road and either take a bemo (though they are becoming less regular as motorbikes take over) or an ojek to Tetebatu. Alternatively, from Mataram you can arrange a Perama charter.

It isn’t easy to change money locally and there’s no public telephone or internet access.

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