Jhunjhunu’s finest havelis are spread out along Nehru Bazaar, immediately east of the main bazaar. Heading east, you’ll first reach the striking Kaniram Narsinghdas Tibrewala Haveli of 1883, perched on a platform above the surrounding vegetable stalls and sporting a fine selection of paintings inside (the entrance is around the back).

Further east down Nehru Bazaar, the Mohanlal Ishwardas Modi Haveli has a good selection of entertainingly naive portraits. Unusual oval miniatures of various Indian bigwigs frame the entrance to the zenana (women’s) courtyard, while in the zenana itself a long frieze of miniature portraits runs around the top of the arches showing assorted European and Indian personages sporting a range of flouncy costumes, silly hats and magnificent moustaches.

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