Jhunjhunu’s finest havelis are spread out along Nehru Bazaar, immediately east of the main bazaar. Heading east, you’ll first reach the striking Kaniram Narsinghdas Tibrewala Haveli of 1883, perched on a platform above the surrounding vegetable stalls and sporting a fine selection of paintings inside (the entrance is around the back).

Further east down Nehru Bazaar, entered via an impressive ramp up from street level, the Mohanlal Ishwardas Modi Haveli has a good selection of entertainingly naïve portraits. Unusual oval miniatures of various Indian bigwigs frame the entrance to the zenana (women’s) courtyard, while in the zenana itself a long frieze of miniature portraits runs around the top of the arches showing assorted European and Indian personages sporting a range of flouncy costumes, silly hats and magnificent moustaches.

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