Hidden away in the alleyways west of Nehru Bazaar is Jhunjhunu’s most striking building, the magnificent Khetri Mahal of 1770, a superb, open-sided sandstone palace with cusped Islamic-style arches that wouldn’t look out of place amid the great Indo-Islamic monuments of Fatehpur Sikri. The whole edifice seems incongruously grand amid the modest streets of central Jhunjhunu and is largely abandoned, save for the upper terraces that serve as impromptu open-air classrooms for local schoolchildren. A covered ramp, wide enough for horses, winds up to the roof, from where there are sweeping views over the town and across to the massive ramparts of the sturdy Badalgarh Fort (currently closed to the public) on a nearby hilltop.

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