Although Kashmir’s climate is not as harsh as in neighbouring Ladakh and the road up from Jammu is kept open by the army, the winter months see some seriously sub-zero temperatures and heaps of snow. If you do come between November and March, you will need to bring very warm clothing – locals wear a thick woollen cloak called a pheran. By contrast, as much of the Kashmir Valley, including Srinagar itself, is well under 2000m in altitude, high summer can be surprisingly hot, sometimes topping 35 degrees Celsius. Therefore, the late spring or early autumn is the best time to come, especially if you intend to do any trekking. The former sees the meadows carpeted in an abundance of flowers, while the latter offers warm golden days, chillier nights and the first signs of the foliage changing hue.