As you approach Leh, you’ll have little difficulty imagining how the old trans-Himalayan traders must have felt as they plodded in from Yarkhand and Tibet. This is a true wonderland. It's a mixture of relief at having crossed the mountains in one piece, and anticipation of a relaxing spell in one of central Asia’s most scenic towns. Leh is a fairytale city surrounded by eye-catching nature. The Ladakhi capital sprawls out of a valley that tapers northward towards eroded snow-capped peaks. Looking to the south, it boasts majestic views of the Stok-Kangri massif as it rests at the foot of a ruined Tibetan-style palace.
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Attractions in and around the town itself include the former palace and Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, perched amid strings of prayer flags, whose layout has changed little since it was founded in the sixteenth century.
A short walk north across the fields brings you to the small monastery at Sankar. Here you'll find modern Tantric murals and a thousand-headed Avalokitesvara deity. Leh is also a good base for longer day-trips out into the Indus Valley.
Among the string of picturesque villages and gompas within reach by bus are Shey, site of a derelict seventeenth century palace, and the spectacular Thikse Gompa. Keep in mind the peak months are July and August.
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Leh palace, India - Ladakh © Shutterstock
Drink 3–4 litres of water a day, avoid alcohol, and don’t exert yourself; try to walk more slowly than usual, especially when going uphill.
Today, the streets are filled with shops selling souvenirs and handicrafts. Even if you don't need trekking supplies, look at some of the stores that remain open. You can find bright colors like pink, turquoise and red in the windows.
Tourists usually stay on the main roads but locals go into side-alleys near east and north of the bazaar.
Since his family left in the 1940s, some parts of it have fallen down because of cannons from Kashmiri. Despite recent restoration work, there’s not much to see in the dark interior; most visitors spider up to the rooftop for lovely views out over Leh.
Two trails lead up to “the Peak of Victory”, whose twin peaks are connected by giant strings of multicoloured prayer flags: the first and most popular path zigzags across its south side from the palace road, while a second scales the more gentle northern slope via the north-Leh suburb of Chubi.
This is the route followed by the lama from Sankar gompa, who tends to the shrine each morning and evening. Alternatively, the place is accessible by road.
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa with prayer flags - Leh - Ladakh - Jammu and Kashmir - India © Shutterstock
It has a reasonable collection of artefacts, clothing and photographs that focus on the deep connections between Ladakh and the rest of Central Asia, forged through its position on the Silk Route.
Inaugurated in 1985 by the Dalai Lama, the “Peace Pagoda”, whose sides are decorated with gilt panels depicting episodes from the life of the Buddha, is one of several such monuments erected around India by a “Peace Sect” of Japanese Buddhists.
The monastery is the official residence of the Kushok Bakula, Ladakh’s head of the Gelug-pa sect. Above the Du-khang (main prayer hall) stands the gompa’s principal deity, Tara, in her triumphant, one-thousand-armed form as Dukkar, or “Lady of the White Parasol”, presiding over a light, airy shrine room whose walls are adorned with a Tibetan calendar and tableaux depicting “dos and don’ts” for monks – some of which are very arcane indeed.
Browse the best hotels in Leh.
Shanti Stupa also known as Peace Pagoda on hilltop of Chanspa, Leh city, Ladakh, India © Shutterstock
Leh experiences a brief monsoon season (July to August), accompanied by sporadic rainfall. Although the rainfall is relatively low, there is a risk of landslides and road closures.
Autumn (September to October) brings pleasant weather to Leh, with temperatures ranging from 10°C to 25°C (50°F to 77°F). Clear skies provide stunning views, making it an excellent time for sightseeing and photography.
From November to April, Leh enters winter, characterised by extremely cold temperatures that drop well below freezing point. Heavy snowfall leads to the closure of many roads and high-altitude passes, including the renowned Khardung La.
However, if you're interested in experiencing snow and seeking a more secluded and peaceful trip, visiting Leh during the winter months is an option. The popular winter adventure activity of Chadar Trek on the frozen Zanskar River awaits adventurous souls.
Find out more about the best time to visit India.
Kashimir carpet shops in the main shopping street in downtown of Leh City © Shutterstock
During your stay in Leh, you can explore the Leh Palace, a nine-story royal residence with stunning views of the city and surrounding landscapes. You can also visit the iconic Shanti Stupa, a Buddhist white-domed monument offering panoramic views of Leh and the Himalayas.
In addition, Leh serves as a base for various day trips and excursions to breathtaking destinations such as Pangong Tso, a stunning high-altitude lake famous for its changing hues, and Nubra Valley, known for its scenic beauty, sand dunes, and the Diskit Monastery.
If you have more time available, you can extend your stay in Leh to explore other attractions like the ancient monasteries of Alchi and Lamayuru, or venture into remote areas like Zanskar Valley and Tso Moriri.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 5.06.2023
