Whereas the larger Zambezi flows inevitably eastwards towards Victoria Falls and ultimately the Indian Ocean, the Chobe River occasionally exhibits a curious phenomenon: on the rare occasions when the upper Zambezi floods, you can witness the Chobe River’s flow being temporarily reversed, as it is forced to run westwards, as well as pushing water into Lake Liambezi, until the floodwaters recede and it resumes its usual course once more, sliding into the Zambezi.

Between the two rivers, west of Impalila, their swampy floodplains extend, laced with deep channels of water lined with high reeds and clumps of papyrus. The area is more populated than you might imagine, with over two thousand Lozi making a living from subsistence farming, hunting and fishing, leading a semi-nomadic existence as they move with the rise and fall of the river levels, seeking higher land when the floodwaters swell (generally from March onwards). Significant quantities of large mammals are returning to the region, and the prolific birdlife is a further draw.

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