From Katima a decent, tarred road heads 70km southeast past a string of tidy, well-swept settlements and wandering cattle to the Botswana border at the village of Ngoma, home primarily to the Masubia, and the location of a cheerfully painted roadside community craft shop. Around 38km from Katima, there’s a sign off down the D3507 (around 25km) to Lake Liambezi, a curious and constantly changing lake, worth swinging by if you’ve time. Created in the late 1950s from a major flooding of the Zambezi, it was reduced to a dustbowl for many years in the mid-1980s, possibly due to the large-scale poaching of hippos, which used to keep the water channels open by trampling through them. Heavy rains for several years after 2009 allowed it to replenish, prompting a profitable seasonal fishing industry to mushroom round its edges, with villagers sending off their catch of tilapia, bream and catfish to neighbouring countries and even as far away as the DRC. Hippo and crocs too have now repopulated the lake, which also attracts good birdlife, though at the time of going to press, following several years of drought, the Liambezi was in danger of drying up once more.

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