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Travel advice for Iceland
From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for traveling to Iceland
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written by Diana Jarvis
updated 14.02.2024
A photography trip on every lens-lover’s bucket list, shooting the Northern Lights in Iceland really is as spectacular as it sounds. Rough Guides photographer Diana Jarvis went to chase the aurora borealis across the remote Icelandic countryside.
Don't go looking for the Northern Lights and expect to get any sleep: the weather will have final say over your itinerary and there’s nowhere Mother Nature is more firmly in charge than on an aurora-chasing trip in Iceland.
In a land of sugar-dusted volcanic peaks, electric-blue glaciers, meandering meltwater tributaries, ice lakes and wide endless skies, your choice of backdrop for those elusive Northern Lights photos is immense.
By Diana Jarvis
Aurora season is primarily between October and March, as although activity actually takes place throughout the year, the longer summer days mean that it’s never quite dark enough to see the colourful trails illuminating the sky. And boy oh boy does it need to be dark (read: late) and with clear skies. And you need to be in the right place at the right time of course.
But with settlements on the south east coast few and far between, the challenge of finding somewhere to camp out in the cold all night while awaiting the unpredictable aurora can make it a logistical conundrum.
The perfect way to access the elusive Northern Lights
The solution? Jump aboard the ‘travelling hotel’ and a mean beast of an off-road jeep-cum-minibus that can set up camp anywhere Mother Nature decrees. If she lets you sleep at all, that is.
This warm and cosy accommodation on wheels is run by Tatra Photography, who’ve been providing photography tours for the last five years. My team consists of trip captain Matt, Jón, a native Icelander with expert knowledge of the geography of the country and Mark Bauer, a seasoned landscape photographer whose passion and technical knowledge mean you’ll return home with shots well beyond your anticipated capabilities (and a very expensive equipment wish list).
What I saw with my eyes was darkness, but what I saw on the back of my camera after a 15-second exposure was something quite different
On my first day, after a six-hour drive heading east, we arrived at Jokulsárlón glacier lake where the travelling hotel was already set up for the night. Just as well, too, as the clouds had rolled in and rains were descending – little of the lake was discernible.
Yet as we cozied up listening to the pitter patter of rain on the canvas roof of the ‘dining room’ later that evening, Matt and Mark began to get excited: the Kp readings were reaching 6 and 7 indicating the chance of dancing lights in the skies.... at 2, maybe 3am if the clouds dispersed. It was going to be a long night.
My first few attempts were unappealing murky grey approximations of the shifting icebergs on the lake in front, but it was all good practice for when aurora put in her first appearance. It wasn’t what I’d been expecting – just as when you photograph light trails from speeding vehicles you capture something the naked eye doesn’t see, it’s the long exposure that reveals the colour and shape of the aurora.
What I saw with my eyes was darkness, clouds parting and a faint shifting whiteness in the sky that could be mistaken for clouds illuminated by stadium lights or similar.
But what I saw on the back of my camera after a 15-second exposure (coupled with ISO 3200, f/2.8 set to infinity focus for the geeks among you) was, well, something quite different.
By Diana Jarvis
The rest of the trip continued in the same vein: during the days we were taken to beautifully photogenic spots – electric blue glaciers to Atlantic waves crashing over weather-sculpted ice blocks, desolate black-sand beaches to jagged volcanic peaks.
At night we wrapped up in our merino and down layers and waited patiently for aurora to put in an appearance.
By Diana Jarvis
I raced up to the top of the hillock to revel in every moment of it with my very own, sleepy eyes, recording the twists and turns of the colourful strands in my memory for future replays
While night two was quiet, night three really was disco time in the sky. I had just about given up and was traipsing back to the truck when the dancing began.
My first reaction, however, was not to reach for the cable release and guess at an appropriately shorter exposure time but, rather, to race up to the top of the hillock and revel in every moment of it with my very own, sleepy eyes, recording the twists and turns of the colourful strands on my mind’s eye for future replays.
After three nights by the lake, the travelling hotel decamped to a flat lunar landscape surrounded by lofty peaks midway between Eystrahorn and Vestrahorn. If you looked far enough into the distance you might see shy reindeer herds trotting by.
Despite the Kp readings being a lower than previous nights, and the prospect of a 3am start for the airport the following day, we still headed out into the night. It was hard to resist one final fling with our new friend aurora...
Polar lights can be seen in many high latitude locations- including Iceland, Norway, Finland, Canada, and Alaska.
8 days / from2092 USD
Iceland: A Game of Thrones Road Trip
This themed road trip will take you around Iceland, home to many filming locations of the hit TV series, Game of Thrones. Travel around the country's coastline, past the many dramatic glaciers and cliffs, relax in geothermal spas, and spot whales in the rough seas. Warning: Spoiler alert!
view tour ⤍8 days / from2052 USD
Iceland's Wild West
Welcome to the road trip of a lifetime, which will bring you to some of western Iceland’s wildest and most remote spots. On this adventure, you will pay unforgettable visits to Hraunfossar Waterfalls, as well as the Barnafoss and Deildartunguhver hot springs, and much more!
view tour ⤍6 days / from1680 USD
Iceland's Highlights from East to West
Take a flight to the East where you get to enjoy the enchanting Eastfjords before you drive south. If you are looking to focus on a few regions with a mix of the most popular sights and something off the beaten path; and to avoid backtracking with a one-way domestic flight, this is the perfect trip.
view tour ⤍7 days / from1650 USD
Discover North Iceland and Snaefellses
Discover the best of North Iceland and Snaefellsnes! The area around the volcanic Lake Myvatn is surrounded by impressive geological sights, stunning waterfalls and mighty canyons! The Snaefellsnes peninsula is known as “miniature Iceland” for the diversity of landscape it offers.
view tour ⤍5 days / from1300 USD
Best of the West
Take the road less travelled around the Westfjords and Snaefellsnes peninsulas. Visit places unspoiled by humans and see the wonders and creativity of nature at their very best! The wild Westfjords feature a stunning landscape of towering mountains, deep blue fjords, and thundering waterfalls.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1880 USD
East to West with the Westmand Islands
Drive around the Lake Lagarfljot and visit Hengifoss waterfall and the Hallormsstadur forest. Continue to the South Coast with its beautiful waterfalls, glacier lagoons and black sand beaches. Take a detour to spend a day in the stunning Westman Islands and end your trip with the Golden Circle.
view tour ⤍13 days / from2200 USD
All of Iceland in 13 days
In just under 2 weeks, explore the highlights Iceland has to offer. From the popular Golden Circle, follow the Ring Road and explore waterfalls and lagoons on your way around the island. This itinerary leads you all the way to the North and the Westfjords of Iceland.
view tour ⤍12 days / from2100 USD
Incredible Iceland in 12 days
This driving trip trip will take you to some of Iceland’s most incredible sights and natural wonders. Drive through glacial valleys and across towering mountains as you gaze over stark landscapes of shining silver steaks and marble lava fields patched with emerald green moss...
view tour ⤍9 days / from1800 USD
West & Arctic Coast Way Highlights
The area around the volcanic Lake Myvatn is surrounded by impressive geological sights, stunning waterfalls and mighty canyons. Visit the 'capital of the North' Akureyri before continuing to the Snaefellsnes peninsula, known as “miniature Iceland” for the diversity of landscape it offers.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1600 USD
Exploring the South Coast and Snaefellsnes
Glaciers, volcanoes, black sand beaches, lagoons - Iceland offers stunning landscapes to explore. This itinerary allows you to discover the south in your own rental car. Drive the famous Golden Circle and discover waterfalls along the way.
view tour ⤍10 days / from1900 USD
Arctic Coast Way Fly & Drive
North Iceland is one of Iceland's most fascinating regions with plenty of famous sights and lesser-known sights - impressive waterfalls, geothermal activity, lava formations and canyons. A visit to Akureyri as well as charming fishing villages along the coastline are included in the itinerary.
view tour ⤍10 days / from2000 USD
Iceland: the Ring Road in 10 days
Spend 10 days driving along Iceland's scenic Ring Road, which stretches around the outside of the country. Soak in a thermal tub or pool beside gushing geysers or waterfalls, and relish the prospect of whale-watching, bird-watching, and glacier hiking in magical surroundings.
view tour ⤍7 days / from1700 USD
Wild, wild West Drive
The wild Westfjords feature a stunning landscape of towering mountains, deep blue fjords, thundering waterfalls, sea cliffs teeming with birds and rejuvenating hot springs! Snaefellsnes is known as “miniature Iceland” for the diversity of landscape it offers.
view tour ⤍7 days / from1700 USD
A week's trip to the South Coast and Snaefellsnes
With just a week's time, you'll be able to discover the popular Golden Circle, Skogafos and Seljalandsfoss, as well as Skaftafell National Park. This self-drive trip focuses on the south coast only, limiting your driving distances each day and as such allowing you more time to explore.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1600 USD
Classic Highlights with the Westman Islands
This Classic Highlights trip to Iceland's most visited sights with a day off the beaten path in the gorgeous Westman Islands. This trip is perfect for those who want to visit the most popular sights of Iceland, and have an extra day to do something different without adding a lot of extra driving.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1680 USD
Westfjords Circle and Strandir
The wild Westfjords feature a stunning landscape of towering mountains, deep blue fjords, thundering waterfalls, sea cliffs teeming with birds and rejuvenating hot springs! You also take a detour to where the road ends in remote Strandir to drive along the coastline.
view tour ⤍5 days / from1320 USD
Classic Highlights - Golden Circle & South Coast
Our most popular short trip to Iceland's most visited sights! The Golden Circle is Iceland's most popular tourist route with the rift valley at the Thingvellir National Park, Geysir geothermal area and the Gullfoss waterfall. The South Coast is well known for its waterfalls and the Glacier Lagoon.
view tour ⤍7 days / from1700 USD
Ring Road Express with the Golden Circle
Iceland's Ring Road is the most popular tourist route around the Iceland. The landscape is everything you have dreamed of - breathtaking waterfalls, volcanic landscape, black sand beaches, glaciers, fjords and charming fishing villages.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1600 USD
Explore North Iceland and Snaefellsnes
Discover the best of North Iceland and Snaefellsnes! The area around the volcanic Lake Myvatn is surrounded by impressive geological sights, stunning waterfalls and mighty canyons! The Snaefellsnes peninsula is known as “miniature Iceland” for the diversity of landscape it offers.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1250 USD
Western Iceland: Cliffs, Coast and Waterfalls
Welcome to the road trip of a lifetime, which will bring you to some of Iceland’s remotest spots, such the dramatic Latrabjarg Cliffs and the Hraunfossar and Barnafoss Waterfalls. Drive through glacial valleys and soak up breathtaking sunsets. Laze afternoons away soaking in natural hot springs!
view tour ⤍10 days / from1900 USD
Iceland: West and North combined
Take the road less traveled and explore the North and the Westfjords of Iceland in your own rental car. Glaciers, lava fields, beaches, waterfalls and much more await those adventurous enough to explore Iceland further.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1750 USD
Longer North Iceland and Snaefellsnes
Have a bit more time to explore Northern Iceland? Stunning waterfalls, mighty canyons, a diverse scenery and much more is waiting for you. Take your rental car and go at your own pace, discovering Northern Iceland in a bit over one week.
view tour ⤍7 days / from1800 USD
From East to West with the Westman Islands
Drive around the Lake Lagarfljot and visit Hengifoss waterfall and the Hallormsstadur forest. Continue to the South Coast with its beautiful waterfalls, glacier lagoons and black sand beaches. Take a detour to spend a day in the stunning Westman Islands and end your trip with the Golden Circle.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1750 USD
Wild West Drive and Strandir
This holiday is perfect for travellers who want to go off the beaten path and explore the stunning landscape of the Westfjords & Snaefellsnes including the remote Strandir regions. With your rented SUV, you can set your own schedule to explore the scenery.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1750 USD
Classic Ring Road with Snaefellsnes
There's a good reason the Ring Road is Iceland's most popular route: famous glaciers and volcanoes, stunning waterfalls, and amazing lagoons await. The Snaefellsnes peninsula makes the perfect add-on to your tour, granting you a compact overview of Iceland's scenery.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1750 USD
Extended Wild, Wild West
Awaken the adventurous part of your soul and visit the Westfjords and parts of the Snaefellsnes peninsula that are yet to be discovered by most Iceland visitors. Here's where you'll have nature to yourself, from lava fields and craters to red sand beaches.
view tour ⤍5 days / from1300 USD
North Iceland Fly and Drive
Take an adventure to North Iceland, one of Iceland's most fascinating regions! This holiday is perfect for those pressed on time, in just five days you get to explore the highlights of North Iceland in your own rental car, so going at your own pace.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1800 USD
Longer South Coast and Snaefellsnes
Discover the Golden Circle on a slightly longer tour: from waterfalls to black sand beaches, driving the popular Golden Circle all down to Snaefellsnes, the peninsula known as “miniature Iceland”, This itinerary allows you to go at your own pace in your own rental car.
view tour ⤍6 days / from1715 USD
Iceland: Landscapes and Lagoons
This unforgettable driving trip will take you to some of Iceland’s most iconic natural wonders. Whilst soaking luxuriantly in geothermal pools, you will relish the thought of driving through glacial valleys and across towering mountains, walking along black sand beaches.
view tour ⤍5 days / from1400 USD
Circling the Westfjords
Take the road less travelled around the Westfjords. Visit places unspoiled by humans and see the wonders and creativity of nature at their very best! Suited for those on a tight schedule, this 5 day itinerary allows for a compact yet activity-packed trip.
view tour ⤍8 days / from1750 USD
Iceland: the Ring Road in 8 days
Spend eight days driving along Iceland's iconic Ring Road route, which runs around the whole of the country. Pass through spectacular scenery every day, and stopping off to stay in Vik, Akureyri and Reykjavik, whilst exploring the Golden Circle, the Blue Lagoon, Lake Myvatn, and much more!
view tour ⤍5 days / from1400 USD
North Iceland circle
Take an adventure to North Iceland, one of Iceland's most fascinating regions! A rich wildlife and landscape makes this part of Iceland a visitor magnet all throughout the year. This holiday includes your domestic flight to Akureyri and a rental car to explore the region in depth.
view tour ⤍15 days / from2400 USD
All of Iceland in 15 days
The extension to our popular all of Iceland route: visit the spectacular Dettifoss waterfall on the diamond circle route, as well as one of the most remote regions in Iceland: Strandir. This itinerary is best for those looking to explore Iceland at a leisurely pace.
view tour ⤍11 days / from3549 USD
The Magic of Eastern Iceland
Be enchanted by eastern Iceland as you drive through glacial valleys and across towering mountains, looking over treeless landscapes of shining silver streaks and marble lava fields patched with emerald green moss. Enjoy a whale-watching trip at Húsavík and soak in geothermal pools.
view tour ⤍9 days / from1900 USD
Classic Iceland in 9 days
This tour includes all of Iceland's highlights: the breathtaking waterfalls on the Ring Road, the popular golden Circle as well as the Snæfellsnes peninsula with its dramatic landscapes. Get ready for a fast-paced self-drive adventure and discover Iceland.
view tour ⤍16 days / from2500 USD
Total Immersion: Your 16-day Road Trip
Ready to explore the nooks and crannies of Iceland? This 16-day itinerary allows you to discover the tourist highlights as well as the off-the-beaten-track destinations. From waterfalls over glaciers to volcanoes - tour the island in your own rental car.
view tour ⤍Wanting to explore other places to see the northern lights? Check out our guide to the most beautiful places in Alaska.
written by Diana Jarvis
updated 14.02.2024
Diana is a photographer and writer based in Margate, Kent. She has shot ten guidebooks for Rough Guides and undertaken numerous commissions for Visit England, National Geographic Traveller (UK), GreenTraveller and Cool Camping, among others. She is currently the editor of Eye for the Light a subscription-only, digital publication in association with Travel Photographer of the Year and is also the Publishing and Photography Director at the British Guild of Travel Writers. Follow her on Instagram and Twitter.
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From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for traveling to Iceland