Florida may be best known for its fairground thrills, ‘gators, and the Everglades, but there’s much more to the Sunshine State than Orlando package holidays. Rough Guides editor Kate Drynan heads off on a first-time visit with a group of friends to Florida to explore one of the state’s lesser known (and affordable!) destinations: Panama City Beach.
Panama City Beach, or PCB, lies at the north-western tip of Florida in an area known as the Panhandle. It is blessed with soft, seemingly sugar-spun sand that stretches for 27 miles. Welcome to beach life that doesn’t burn your feet and clear, temperate waters that warm the soul.
Having somewhat successfully shaken off its Spring Break vibe, PCB these days is just as well-known as a family vacation spot. This is largely down to the team at Visit Panama City Beach tourist board who have worked hard to showcase the area’s glorious natural assets, alongside a concentrated effort by local councils to apply for state grants to develop the local infrastructure.
Panama City Beach, Florida © Shutterstock
A first peek out of my balcony doors into the dark night sky on the 10th floor of Hyatt Place Panama City Beach, a sleek three-star hotel which overlooks the beach, brought a broad smile. The scent of tangy, salty air and the sound of crashing waves on the beach beneath was more than a promising start.
The next day’s reveal did not disappoint. An endless white beach stretched out in both directions below me, untouched and inviting with empty sun loungers still stacked high. Joggers marked faint dots along the shoreline. And the pier in the distance stood like a launchpad over waters tinted blue in the morning light.
First up was a private boat charter to Shell Island, courtesy of Island Time Sailing. A pristine, uninhabited island that forms part of St Andrew’s State Park. With a pod of dolphins leading the way and the sun shimmering on the water, this initiation to life in PCB was going to be hard to beat.
An hour into our trip, we anchored down. This was free time to savour the natural beauty of the island and snorkel, swim, paddleboard or walk on the beach. For the fun and young at heart, the boat is equipped with a slide, which offers a suitably gleeful and rapid submersion into the Gulf’s balmy emerald sea.
Towelled up, we departed. Lazing portside in the sunshine, we enjoyed music, beers, and Rum Punch. Watching languidly as others in the group tried their hand at sailing; learning how to hoist sails and heave ropes with our friendly crew. A 3hr trip costs an affordable GBP38.50 plus tax per person, GBP27.50 plus tax for children.
Shell Island next to St. Andrews Florida State Park © Shutterstock
Back on land, there’s a distinct and perhaps unexpected southern vibe in PCB. You’ll hear it in your chats with waitresses and shop assistants or in overheard conversations of passers-by; you’ll sway and dance to it in the country music bars around town and you’ll taste its influences in menus.
It’s a quick reminder of how diverse and interesting the State of Florida actually is. In Panama City Beach you’re only a few hours’ drive back up across the border into the states of Alabama or Georgia. While the further south you go towards Miami, these southern charms are replaced by a Latino mood.
Snowy Egret at St. Andrews State Park © Shutterstock
Doughnuts, breakfast margaritas and pistachio muffins, Blackfish tacos, steak, super salads, grits, biscuits and grouper… Dining in PCB is all about fresh, locally-sourced ingredients and atmospheric waterfront restaurants. Portions are generous, and delicious, with a serious calorie intake that sets you up nicely for (mostly necessary) action-packed days.
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St Andrews State Park is a pristine nature reserve, popular with campers, surfers and scuba divers. It flanks one end of the seemingly endless beach and is visible on the boat trip to Shell Island. Entry to the park is from GBP3 per vehicle.
At the other end sits Camp Helen, reminiscent of summer camp scenes from many a movie. Filled with fragrant pine trees and the chirp of birdlife, Camp Helen is a quiet natural sanctuary. Accessible only as a day visitor for GBP3 per vehicle or GBP1.50 for cyclists or those on foot, it feels a million miles from the bustle of the beach.
Beach scene in Panama City Beach Florida at sunset © Shutterstock
The parkland encompasses Lake Powell, one of Florida’s rare coastal dune lakes. The lake’s shallow waters are extremely family-friendly. You can rent a single or tandem kayak from Friends of Camp Helen from GBP40 online or from the cabin by the lakeshore.
An easy hour’s loop will see you head out and back at a leisurely pace. You can extend your time on the water by paddling up close to the inlet, hop out and go for a dip in the sea. When it’s time to head back, you’ll have to paddle that bit harder against the gentle current to return to shore.
Alternatively, with a few miles of waymarked hiking trails, there’s plenty to see on foot. Birdlife is abundant here, and you may spot great blue herons, swamp sparrows and mockingbirds. And while alligators might crop up in conversation, it feels less like imminent danger and more like locals poking fun. That said, it’s wise to remain vigilant in Florida.
SkyWheel in Panama City Beach © Kate Drynan
Meanwhile, shopping at Pier Park is plentiful and accessible just a few blocks behind the beachfront. Here, you’ll encounter myriad fashion, beachwear and beauty stores nestled next to giant consumer staples such as Walmart and Target. Not to mention every child’s delight – a sizeable Candy World.
While downtown, retail therapy can easily be combined with a spin on the SkyWheel for just over GBP13. A 187-ft tall viewing outpost offering superb views. Admittedly, I quickly discovered the steep drop on the descent wasn’t for me and was happy to alight the little swaying cabin when the third revolution was complete.
Afterwards, we looped back on foot towards City Pier to pick up fabulous freshly prepared drinks served in hollowed-out husks at the kiosk on Front Beach Road. Then it was time to head back to our hotel; and with a pool and the beach on your doorstep, a quick swim before dinner was high on the agenda.
Panama City Beach, Florida © Shutterstock
Other activities that you won’t come across everyday include learning to build photo-worthy sand sculptures on the beach with That Sandcastle Guy. A fun morning equally suited to adults and children aged 5 and up, you’ll be equipped with all the buckets, spades, dusters and tools you require to create sandy creations that will draw some crowds. Bookings are from GBP30 for groups of a minimum of two people.
Another impressive evening was catered for by Endless Beach Rentals. They literally whizzed in while we were at dinner and set up deckchairs, a musician, and a bonfire. Groups of two cost from GBP188 for three hours. With takeaway drinks from Schooner’s bar, all that’s left to do is chat, laugh and toast s’mores in a sandy circle under the stars.
Following jam-packed days of good times, and thoroughly enjoying everything from boat trips to bar hopping, I boarded my flight to Atlanta, relaxed, renewed, and invigorated.
That Sandcastle Guy sand sculpture © Hannah Mulvey
Here’s our recommendations for exploring this area.
Return, indirect flights to Panama City Beach from London cost around GBP563 to Atlanta, including a connecting flight from Atlanta to PCB. Connecting flights can be made from most major US cities.
850Shuttle can provide an impeccable private car and driver transportation service on the ground.
Hyatt Place Panama City Beach is a new three-star beachfront hotel, with sleek interiors, spread out over eleven floors, each with private balconies and a gym, swimming pool, bar and mini mart. A one-night stay starts at approximately £150pp, based on two people sharing. Breakfast included.
Planning your dream trip can take hours of research and planning — you might want to consider hiring a professional. Our tailor made trip service takes care of every detail. Our trips are planned by local travel experts and can be completely customised by you. Reach out to us and book your trip today.
Pineapple refreshment at Panama City Beach © Kate Drynan
City Beach has a lot of fantastic places to eat — but here's our pick:
Appetisers at Panama City Beach © Hannah Mulvey
Here are our top recommendations for activities in Panama City Beach, Florida:
Island Time Sailing offers a memorable seafaring experience along the Gulf Coast, providing guests with relaxing cruises, breathtaking sunsets, and the chance to spot marine life.
St. Andrew's State Park is a natural haven for outdoor enthusiasts, featuring pristine beaches, hiking trails, and diverse ecosystems perfect for birdwatching and wildlife observation.
Kayaking Camp Helen offers an immersive paddle experience through the scenic waters of Camp Helen State Park, allowing participants to explore coastal habitats and enjoy the tranquility of the area.
Pier at Camp Helen State Park outside Panama City Beach, Florida © Shutterstock
That Sandcastle Guy brings the beach to life with intricate and artistic sand sculptures, providing entertainment and creating memorable experiences for visitors of all ages.
Endless Beach Rentals provides a wide array of beach equipment and gear for rent, ensuring a hassle-free and enjoyable beach experience with options like chairs, umbrellas, and water sports equipment.
The SkyWheel offers a thrilling panoramic view of Panama City Beach, taking riders to new heights in climate-controlled gondolas for a memorable and scenic adventure along the coastline.
Pier Park, is a vibrant shopping and entertainment destination in Panama City Beach, offering a diverse array of retail stores, restaurants, and attractions for visitors to enjoy.
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written by
Kate Drynan
updated 14.03.2024
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