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Travel advice for Jordan
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written by Lucy Pierce
updated 4.04.2023
Follow Rough Guides writer, Lucy Pierce, as she explores the Bedouins and learns about nomadic life in the Jordanian desert.
“No way, I love my hot showers” Tarek grinned when I asked him if he’d rather be living nomadically in Petra’s caves, as his ancestors had for centuries. Tarek was born in such a cave, but told me how he prefers having electricity and running water in his house – particularly hot water.
I spent a couple of days in Petra and Wadi Rum, uncovering the bedouin culture – a nomadic Arab tribe in the Middle Eastern deserts – from past to present. How has it evolved over the last 40 years? With shiny modern structures seemingly taking over the continent, could a nomadic tribe preserve their heritage?
Jabal Umm ad Dami, the highest mountain in Jordan © Shutterstock
6 days / from1333 USD
Discover Jordan
Jordan has it all: spectacular desert scenery; the Dead Sea, age-old cities, castles, monuments, and more. Discover the best of this welcoming country as you delve into the history of ancient civilizations and see one of the New Seven Wonders of the World up close.
customize ⤍8 days / from1665 USD
Treasures of Jordan
From the Dead Sea's restorative salty shores to Red Sea reefs teeming with aquatic life, Jordan is full of treasures. Get a taste of desert life and adventure in Wadi Rum; then fill up on culture in Petra and Amman, and maybe squeeze in a trip to Jerusalem, too.
customize ⤍6 days / from1080 USD
Highlights of Jordan
Explore the highlights of Jordan in this compact itinerary. Activities include stargazing in Wadi Rum, exploring Petra and spending a day at leisure at the Dead Sea. Your knowledgeable guide will share stories about history and culture and introduce the Bedouin lifestyle to you.
customize ⤍8 days / from1890 USD
An active adventure in Jordan
Experience a mix of hiking in the North of Jordan, canyon trails and relaxing activities combined with sightseeing of the highlights and meeting locals. This trip is accompanied by a knowledgeable guide and is not recommended during wintertime (November to February).
customize ⤍8 days / from1770 USD
Jordan Culture in depth
Get to know the Jordanian culture in depth, indulge in mouthwatering street and local homemade food, meet the owner of the smallest hotel in the world, learn more about the Bedouins and the desert in Wadi Rum and finish off by floating over the Dead Sea mineral water.
customize ⤍8 days / from1800 USD
Family adventure in Jordan
Indulge into the magical ancient world of Jordan on this thrilling family adventure! This tour has been specially designed to highlight the most exciting corners of Jordan, from natural reserves to historical Jerash to magnificent Petra, from Wadi Rum desert to the blissful Dead Sea.
customize ⤍8 days / from1330 USD
Follow the Foot Steps of Jesus in Jordan
Jordan is a full-option land that include marks for each religion and civilization! During this holiday you will be introduced to many Biblical places across our beloved county accompanied with our knowledgeable tour guide you will tells you a lot about fascinating history and culture of Jordan.
customize ⤍8 days / from1440 USD
Jordan Heritage Step by Step
Visit the highlights and attractions of Jordan from the North to the South to find out more about the region’s ancient history, experience the Bedouin lifestyle and meet locals. A knowledgeable tour guide will accompany you to describe the fascinating history and culture of Jordan.
customize ⤍8 days / from1590 USD
Mind, body & soul in Jordan
Jordan is known worldwide as a natural spa and you will discover why. During this holiday, you will find your “peace of mind”. Discover Jordan highlights with relaxing activities and meeting locals. Visit peaceful spots with breathtaking landscapes and practice true relaxation.
customize ⤍9 days / from7650 USD
Luxury Tour of Jordan
Embark on a remarkable journey through Jordan, exploring Petra's ancient wonders, indulging in Aqaba's Red Sea luxury, and immersing in Wadi Rum's surreal desert landscapes. Visit the sacred site of baptism in Bethany, connecting with history and spirituality.
customize ⤍5 days / from1425 USD
Classic Tour in Jordan
Journey through ancient wonders and breathtaking landscapes in Jordan. Explore the iconic marvels of Petra and traverse the surreal red desert of Wadi Rum. Capture mesmerizing memories and carry the beauty of Jordan in your heart forever.
customize ⤍10 days / from3105 USD
Honeymoon in Jordan
Indulge in a blissful honeymoon in Jordan, where relaxation and adventure await. Soak in the soothing Ma'in Hot Springs, explore the captivating landscapes of Wadi Rum, and wander hand in hand through the ancient wonders of Petra.
customize ⤍6 days / from2045 USD
Jordan Highlights - from Aqaba
Uncover the magic of Aqaba's Red Sea, marvel at Petra's ancient wonders, and immerse yourself in the surreal landscapes of Wadi Rum. Jordan's captivating beauty will leave an indelible mark on your heart, creating memories that will endure a lifetime.
customize ⤍7 days / from1630 USD
Jordan for Culture Enthusiasts
Jordan is perfect for Arab culture enthusiasts! Immerse yourself in Jordanian culture and experience real Bedouin hospitality. Visit the highlights in Jordan, meet locals and learn from them and your knowledgeable guide about Jordanian customs and traditions.
customize ⤍Tarek Abdallah is the nephew of Marguerite van Geldermalsen, the author of Married to a Bedouin, who is now living in New Zealand. On a backpacking trip around the Middle East in her 20s, it was on the steps of the Treasury that she met Mohammed Abdallah, a bedouin shopkeeper in Petra. Tarek was keeping the shop ticking over while she was away. Or as I discovered, watching Youtube videos on his smartphone when there’s a lull.
Marguerite’s story romanticises a life of frugality as a bedouin, as British travellers TE Lawrence – the so-called Lawrence of Arabia – and Wilfred Thesiger did before her. No matter how glorious the desert or Petra was, I didn’t think I could sacrifice my creature comforts, like Marguerite had, for seven years of cave dwelling.
Petra is concealed in a remote valley of the Shara mountains. I walked through the deep canyons, admiring the vivid marbled colourings of iron and copper etched into the cliffs. My excitement built with every corner, as the gorge of the Siq narrowed, towering above me.
Through the curves of the sandstone, I caught my first glimpse of the classical facade of The Treasury. I tried to picture the Swiss explorer Johann Burckhardt’s face the day he unearthed this wonder for Westerners in 1812, disguised as an Arab.
Petra Treasury © Jordan Tourism Board
The hubbub of noise echoed as I took in my surroundings. Marvelling at how well intact the structure was, despite an earthquake and an attempted explosion to unearth the supposed gold and riches. My reverie was interrupted by a six-foot tall bedouin with dark features – bristly facial hair and thick kohl eyeliner – wearing a hooded fleece jacket. He was pointing to an outcrop, claiming it was the best view in Petra. He would show me – for a price.
I encountered this friendly familiarity from the bedouins on every corner, whether it was silver jewellery or a donkey ride. I asked my guide, Mohammed, what he thought about their persistence. With a shrug he admitted, “The Bedouins rely on money and tips from tourists and they know they can make it easily. A lot of them like to go travelling around Europe, so this is their opportunity”.
After an hour’s hike and around 800 steps, I turned to see an uninterrupted view of the Ad Deir monastery. I rotated a full 360 degrees to admire the golden hues of the monastery, the vast Petra basin and Wadi Araba – their layers in the distance looked like a mirage in the midday sun. There was a soft breeze and I heard the clink of a kettle – it was time for a cup of tea.
Ad Deir Monastery © Lucy Pierce
Another cup of tea was pressed into my hands by a bedouin as I was invited to sit down in his tent. I was discovering Wadi Rum by jeep, and it was time for a refreshment next to mushroom rock. We sat on a geometrical Arabian rug, as the kettle bubbled away on a coal stove. The black tea was flavoured with cardamom and cinnamon, giving it an aromatic, sweet taste. I was definitely going to adopt this in my PG Tips at home.
My host was in his seventies and kept warm by the stove, pouring refills to everyone that stopped by and smoked cigarettes, one after another. Life in the desert was laidback, time didn't seem to dictate their day.
Tea brewing in Bedouin Camp, Petra © Shutterstock
I hopped back into the jeep to the house of Lawrence of Arabia – where TE Lawrence slept – then to the parting of red and white sand. The silhouettes of the sandstone recurred behind each other, fading into the distance. It’s so other-worldly that futuristic sci-fi films Star Wars, Dune and The Martian were all shot in the Wadi.
My driver, Salem Zoida, was a bedouin and invited us to his mother’s tent for lunch. Fatima welcomed me into her makeshift tent that had a solar panel hanging off the side, her electricity source. The living room was centred around a coal stove, and we ate a mezze of galayet bandura – sauteed tomatoes with garlic and onion – potatoes doused in olive oil, and a salad with pitta and hummus. The meal was completed by black tea and sesame biscuits.
I discovered that the Bedouins don’t pay tax or rent as they have no fixed address. Salem told me, “We move for water and weather. In winter we stay in the shelter of the mountains, in summer we go higher up for the breeze. It's too hot in summer, it’s often 40C.” Lucky to have natural air conditioning, I thought.
Wadi Rum camp © Shutterstock
We trundled on, stopping by three bedu who were taking respite in the shade with their racing camels resting nearby. They were having tea and a lunch of flatbread, to which they offered us some as we admired their prize steeds. Where the bedouins once herded goats and sheep, many of the men now herd camels or work in the tourism industry.
For the most part, women stay at home. The older women didn’t have education or opportunities. Their day-to-day life has evolved from collecting water and wood, to having running water and a stove. However, it’s rare for Bedouin women to have financial freedom or jobs, as their defined roles mean they stay at home, cook and look after the family.
Jordan cuisine © Shutterstock
I visited the women’s cooperative in Wadi Rum, which is part of the King Hussein Foundation. This support empowers Bedouin women as they sell the pottery and cards they make, and are taught about gardening.
I met Jihad Zawaidah, a naturalist who is teaching women how to grow the nearly extinct Ghada tree that will be replanted in the deserts in Wadi Rum and Arabia. He explained: “The shrubs reverse the effects of grazing and tourism – the roots drink up rainwater, preventing runoff and flash floods in the desert. While the leaves provide sustenance for the animals.”
9 million seedlings will be planted to reintroduce the plant. This is an important task to raise local awareness and help the desert ecosystem. We sat down for a tea of thyme – one of the 12 variations of the herb grown there – that has medicinal values for colds and cancer. Jihad and I discussed how these women’s husbands are happy for them to work at the co-operative, learning about money management and building a strong community network.
After a fascinating day, it was back to Captain’s Camp for dinner. On the menu was zarb, a traditional cooking technique where vegetables, lamb and chicken are cooked in an underground coal pit for three hours. The lamb was so tender and flavourful and served with fragrant rice, grilled aubergine and a mezze of fattoush, hummus and mutabal.
Zarb, a Bedouin delicacy made by cooking meat and vegetables over coals buried underground © Shutterstock
I didn’t fall in love with a bedouin on the steps of the Treasury, but it’s impossible not to form a fond attachment to Petra and Wadi Rum. By necessity, life as a bedouin has evolved. When Petra became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, the bedouins had to relocate to the newly constructed village of Um Sayhoun. It seems running water and renewable energy from solar and wind have improved the quality of life – and the nomadic cave-dwelling lives of Tarek’s ancestors will have to be experienced through literature and our imagination.
Fly from the UK to Amman with Royal Jordanian or British Airways, from £462. The Jordan Pass (70-80JD), includes Petra, Wadi Rum and more. Discover Jordan with Rough Guides – our local travel specialist will create your perfect itinerary.
Lucy travelled to Jordan as a guest of Visit Jordan.
written by Lucy Pierce
updated 4.04.2023
Lucy looks after the Rough Guides social media and is a freelance travel writer specialising in adventure travel, culture and lifestyle. You can follow her on Twitter @LucyPierce
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