If you’re captivated by traditional crafts and puppet painting, head for Sadoya Nippon next. The organization is dedicated to preserving the arts and crafts of Sado, including the creation of textiles and Japanese dolls. Small tours include a stop in a room full of dolls that represent the various classes within Japanese society, from peasants to nobility.
Nearby – and the next stop on your Niigata and Sado itinerary – is a small centre that creates waraji: traditional Japanese sandals made from rice straw. Though the sandals are rarely worn nowadays, they still feature as part of traditional costumes for festivals, for example as the footwear of Onidaiko performers. The straw from which they are made is also used to create good-luck charms and decorations in Shinto shrines, and the centre here also crafts demon (oni) masks for use during Sanno Shrine festivals. The process of creating waraji involves rolling the rice straw into braids before tying them together.
After discovering the best of Sado’s arts and crafts, bed down at the Ryotsu Yamaki Hotel, a gorgeous traditional Japanese ryokan. Set in the hills with superlative views over Lake Kamo and Ryotsu Bay, guests are treated to spacious, tatami-floor rooms (with free Wi-Fi and TV) and tantalizing meals of tempura, fish, rice and vegetable dishes. But the real draw here is the ryokan’s hot-spring baths, which are communal and separated by gender. There are pools both inside and outside, plus reflexology and massage treatments on offer. If that wasn’t enough to recommend the Ryotsu Yamaki Hotel, there’s complimentary parking, a karaoke room and a tea-ceremony lounge decorated with Japanese art. What more could you want?
After a good night’s sleep, kick off Day 5 by discovering Sado Island’s most famous traditional performing art: Onidaiko, or “demon drumming”. Demon drumming is performed in around 120 districts on the island, and is said to usher in a good harvest and to drive away evil spirits. At Niibo Budokan, a centre for martial arts such as kendo, visitors have the chance to not only watch Japanese drumming (taiko) and festival dances, but to learn them. After a brief demonstration of the basic rhythms of taiko, guests can take a pair of heavy drumsticks called bachi and play while dancers move to the beat. Performers are decked out in traditional demon (oni) costume, and dance with another performer who represents Sado itself. Visitors can join in with the dance, too – an instructor is on hand to teach the proper steps.