How many days do you need in Edinburgh?

Known to locals as "Auld Reekie" (Old Smoky) for the coal smoke that once hung over its crowded tenements, Edinburgh now consistently ranks among Europe's most livable cities. Built across seven hills, like Rome, it’s a place where nearly every street corner comes with a view worth stopping for. But how many days in Edinburgh do you need to have a great trip?

How many days do you need to see Edinburgh?

You can see a lot of Edinburgh in two days, but if you don't want to rush, three days is a good amount of time. That gives you a chance to explore at a comfortable pace.

If you're visiting between November and March, consider adding an extra day. Daylight hours can be as short as seven in December, and the weather can slow things down. In summer, it's worth thinking about the festival crowds. Early July has long daylight hours (up to 17) and lower prices before things get busy, while September is quieter with autumn colors starting to show. See more about when to go to Scotland.

If you're staying longer, it's a good idea to use every fourth day for a day trip. Edinburgh is well-connected to places like the Highlands, St Andrews, and the Borders, so it's an easy way to see more of Scotland without packing up and moving cities

2 days in Edinburgh

This itinerary covers the key sights in Edinburgh's Old Town, plus a walk up Arthur's Seat for some of the best views in the city. You'll hit the major landmarks while also getting a feel for local life, all without spending too much time in transit.

Suggested itinerary

Day 1

I would suggest starting your day early at Edinburgh Castle, found on Castle Rock with sweeping views over the city. This fortress has been at the heart of Scottish history for centuries, holding the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny, used in royal coronations. The castle is one of iconic Edinburgh sights, so it gets busy fast, so it's best to visit first thing in the morning.

From there, head down the Royal Mile, the city's historic spine that connects the castle to Holyrood Palace. Along the way, stop at St. Giles' Cathedral, a stunning Gothic landmark with its famous Thistle Chapel, where intricately carved wooden angels play the bagpipes—a uniquely Scottish detail. The Royal Mile is actually a Scots Mile, making it slightly longer than a standard mile (1 mile and 107 yards).

Next, make your way to Victoria Street. This is one of the most picturesque streets in Edinburgh. Its colorful, and it's curved buildings are said to have inspired Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. It's a great place to browse independent shops selling handwoven tartans, artisanal whisky, and other Scottish goods.

In the evening, take a deep dive into Edinburgh's darker history with a tour of the Underground Vaults. These eerie chambers beneath the city once housed everything from illicit whisky distilleries to the city's poorest residents. The vaults have a grim past—stories of body snatchers, smugglers, and reported paranormal activity make this an unforgettable way to end your first day.

Day 2

Start your day with a morning hike up Arthur's Seat, an ancient extinct volcano that rises 823 feet above the city. The climb takes about 1–2 hours and isn't too strenuous, but it's worth starting early for the morning light and is one of the best places to walk in Scotland. The views from the top stretch across Edinburgh's rooftops and out to the sea. Bring a snack to have at the summit while you take it all in.

Once you've made your way back down, take a well-earned break for lunch at The Scran, a spot known for its Scottish street food made with seasonal ingredients from local farms. Their sandwiches, featuring Aberdeen Angus beef or Orkney cheese, are a solid choice if you're looking for something hearty.

In the afternoon, head to the National Museum of Scotland. The striking Victorian Grand Gallery, with its soaring glass ceiling, is home to a fascinating mix of exhibits—from Dolly the sheep (the world's first cloned mammal) to the medieval Lewis Chessmen. The museum is huge, so give yourself at least a couple of hours to explore.

Finish this day with some live folk music at The Royal Oak, a tiny, no-frills pub where locals and visitors share tables while musicians play informal, impromptu sessions. It's a great way to experience Scotland's folk traditions in a setting that has brought people together for generations. There are no reservations, so if you want a seat, aim to get there by 8 p.m.

3 days in Edinburgh

How many days in Edinburgh you need will vary from person to person. That said, with an extra day, you can take a break from the city and head to North Berwick, a small coastal town about 30 minutes away by train. It’s a great place to walk along the shore, watch seabirds swoop over the waves, and breathe in the salty air before heading back to Edinburgh.

Suggested itinerary

On the third day of this itinerary, I suggest taking a quick 30-minute train ride to take a day trip to North Berwick, a charming coastal town east of Edinburgh, and one of the best things to do in Scotland. North Berwick gained notoriety during the 16th-century witch trials, when over 70 people were accused of witchcraft, including using cats to raise storms that supposedly threatened King James VI's ship—a dark chapter in Scottish history that influenced Shakespeare's "Macbeth."

Start your visit at the Scottish Seabird Centre, where you can use spotting scopes to see Bass Rock, home to the world’s largest northern gannet colony. More than 150,000 birds nest on this volcanic island, covering it in white from a distance.

From there, walk along North Berwick Beach, where a stretch of sand leads to the distinctive cone-shaped hill of North Berwick Law. For lunch, The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage serves seasonal Scottish seafood with views across the Firth of Forth. Afterward, take an easy walk along the coastal path for open sea views and a look at the volcanic islands just offshore.

Back in Edinburgh, have dinner at The Witchery by the Castle. Set in a 16th-century building near the castle gates, it leans into the city’s gothic atmosphere with oak paneling, tapestries, and candlelight.

4 days in Edinburgh

Four days gives you time to explore beyond the city center and see the quirky side of Edinburgh. A visit to Rosslyn Chapel, just outside Edinburgh, is worth it if you're into history, mystery, or intricate stonework. Back in town, you can slow down and wander Edinburgh's hidden closes, take in its green spaces, and get to know its whisky scene at a more relaxed pace.

Suggested itinerary

Day 4

Start you fourth day with a short drive to Rosslyn Chapel, a 15th-century church known for its intricate stone carvings and connections to The Da Vinci Code. One of its most famous features is the Apprentice Pillar — one of the most beautiful places in Scotland. Legend has it that an apprentice carved it so beautifully that his jealous master killed him in a fit of rage. The chapel is also filled with more than 100 "Green Man" carvings, faces entwined with foliage that blend pagan and Christian symbolism.

After exploring the chapel, take a walk through Roslin Glen. The trails wind along the North Esk River, and pass through ancient woodland and a protected nature reserve filled with native Scottish plants.

Back in Edinburgh, I suggest spending the afternoon wandering the city's hidden closes—narrow alleyways that branch off the Royal Mile. Advocate's Close has a framed view of the city, while others lead to quiet courtyards and tucked-away gardens that most people miss.

For a final dinner, head to The Devil's Advocate, hidden in a medieval close off the Royal Mile. This converted pump house now houses over 400 whiskeys alongside modern Scottish dishes. The restaurant's name references Edinburgh's historic legal district nearby

After eating, I would head on to Bramble Bar, an unmarked basement cocktail spot where bartenders craft drinks using Scottish spirits and foraged ingredients like heather, sea buckthorn, and elderflower.

Best areas to stay in Edinburgh

Edinburgh has a mix of historic streets, green spaces, and distinct neighborhoods, each with its own appeal. Where you stay depends on what kind of trip you're planning. For a better look, see our guide to where to stay in Edinburgh.

Old Town: Best for first-timers

If it's your first time in Edinburgh, staying in the Old Town puts you close to the city's main sights. Edinburgh Castle, the Royal Mile, and St. Giles' Cathedral are all within walking distance, and the area is full of medieval streets and alleyways. You'll also be near the National Museum of Scotland and Holyrood Palace, so you won't need transport for most sightseeing.

It's a convenient location, but also one of the busiest, especially during festival season. The steep streets can be a challenge if you're carrying luggage or have mobility concerns. There's a mix of historic hotels and modern apartments, but prices tend to be higher due to demand.

New Town: Best for families

Despite its name, New Town dates back to the 18th century and has a more structured layout than the Old Town. The wide streets and Georgian buildings make it easier to get around, especially with strollers or young kids. There's plenty of green space at Princes Street Gardens, along with family-friendly restaurants and shopping streets that aren't as hilly.

It's still central but quieter in the evenings, which can be helpful if you prefer a more relaxed atmosphere. Many hotels here have larger family rooms, and public transport makes it easy to reach places like Edinburgh Zoo or Dynamic Earth.

Leith: Best for foodies

Edinburgh's port district, Leith, has a strong food scene while keeping its maritime character. It has a mix of Michelin-starred restaurants, seafood spots, traditional pubs, and independent cafés, with The Shore being a popular area for dining. The Leith Farmers Market is also a good stop for local produce.

It's not as central as the Old Town, but regular buses and a tram line make it easy to reach the city center. The Water of Leith walkway is another option if you prefer to walk. Accommodation here is often more affordable than in central Edinburgh, which can free up more of your budget for eating out. If you like drinks after dinner, see our guide to nightlife in Edinburgh.

Things to know before going to Edinburgh

If you're planning your trip to Edinburgh, there are a few things you might want to know. For one, pack for all seasons—any time of year. Edinburgh's weather is famously unpredictable, with sudden shifts between sunshine and rain. Bring layers and a waterproof jacket, even in summer.

The city is compact, but some areas—especially the Old Town—have steep streets and cobblestones. Comfortable shoes help, and if mobility is a concern, buses and taxis are easy to find

Scottish hospitality is real, but so is local etiquette. People in Edinburgh are friendly, but they appreciate politeness. Saying "please" and "thank you" goes a long way. When visiting pubs, it's customary to take turns buying rounds if you're drinking in a group.

Festival season means big crowds and high prices. Edinburgh hosts festivals year-round, but August is the busiest when the Edinburgh Festival Fringe takes over the city. Hotels, Airbnbs, and even hostels fill up fast, so book accommodations well in advance. For more tips, see our Scotland travel advice.

Daily budget

Edinburgh is generally more affordable than London but pricier than other parts of Scotland. Here's a rough idea of what to expect:

• Budget travelers: £30-£50 ($38-$63) per day covers a hostel dorm bed, meals from bakeries or casual spots, and public transport. Many top attractions, like the National Museum of Scotland and Arthur's Seat, are free, and walking tours run on a pay-what-you-can basis. A multi-day bus pass helps keep costs down.
• Mid-range budget: £100-£150 ($126-$190) gets you a comfortable hotel or Airbnb, sit-down meals, and a mix of free and paid activities. This budget covers a visit to Edinburgh Castle, a ghost tour, or a whisky tasting without stretching your funds too much.
• High-end travel: £250+ ($316+) per day includes stays in luxury hotels, fine dining, private tours, and premium whisky experiences. If you're visiting during festival season, this budget also gives you access to better seats at shows and exclusive events.

How to get around

Edinburgh's public transport is reliable and easy to use. Lothian buses cover most of the city, and a single ticket includes unlimited transfers within an hour. If you plan to take the bus often, day passes or a rechargeable Ridacard can save money. The tram system mainly connects the airport to the city center.

Despite its hills, walking is often the best way to see the city. The Old Town and New Town are close together, and most major attractions are within a reasonable distance. Taxis and Ubers are available but can be pricey, especially during busy times. Cycling is becoming more popular, with rental options and some dedicated bike lanes, but the steep streets can be a challenge. If you're going beyond Edinburgh, be sure to see our guide to getting around Scotland.

How to get to Edinburgh

Edinburgh Airport is about 8 miles west of the city center, and getting into town is simple. The Airlink 100 bus and the tram both run frequently and provide direct connections.

If you're traveling from within the UK, the train is often the easiest way to get there (taking a train from London to Edinburgh is popular, for example). Edinburgh Waverley Station, located right in the city center, has direct services from London, Manchester, and Glasgow. The fastest trains from London take around four and a half hours.

For a more budget-friendly option, long-distance buses like National Express and Megabus run routes from major UK cities.

Driving into Edinburgh is possible, but parking in the city center is expensive and limited. If you're bringing a car, using park-and-ride facilities on the outskirts is usually a more practical choice. See our guide to getting to Scotland.

Plan your trip with Rough Guides

Planning your trip to Scotland? You're in the right place. If you're making plans now, take a look at our sample Scotland itineraries—they're a great starting point. Our Rough Guide to Scotland is also packed with expert tips and solid recommendations.

• 10 days in Scotland itinerary: Ten days lets you hit Scotland's highlights at a steady pace. You can explore Edinburgh and Glasgow, take a road trip through the Highlands, see Loch Ness, and spend a few days on Skye or another island.
• 5 days in Scotland itinerary: Five days in Scotland means making some tough choices, but you can still cover a lot. You might focus on Edinburgh, the Highlands, and Skye, or take a fast-paced loop including Glasgow, Glen Coe, and the Isle of Mull.
• 3 days in Scotland itinerary: Three days is a short trip, but you can still get a solid feel for Scotland. Stick to one region—Edinburgh and the Highlands, or Glasgow and the west coast. You won't see it all, but you'll experience stunning landscapes, cozy pubs, and maybe even a castle or two.

Or if planning a trip is too much, let us do it for you. Our tailor-made holidays are designed by local travel experts who know Scotland inside and out. Trips are customized to what you want to do, with 24/7 support along the way.