7. For mountains and beaches: Lewis and Harris
Shaped rather like the top of an ice cream cone, Lewis is one of the largest Scottish islands. You’ll find the best-preserved prehistoric remains on this coast – Dun Carloway (Dùn Charlabhaigh) and the Callanish standing stones.
The landscape is mostly peat bog – hence the island’s Gaelic name, from leogach (marshy) – but the shoreline is more dramatic, especially around the Butt of Lewis, the island’s northernmost tip. To the south, where Lewis is physically joined with Harris, the land rises to over 1800ft, providing an exhilarating backdrop for the excellent beaches that pepper the isolated western coastline around Uig.
Harris, whose name derives from the Old Norse for “high land”, is much hillier, more dramatic and much more immediately appealing than Lewis, its boulder-strewn slopes descending to aquamarine bays of dazzling white sand. The shift from Lewis to Harris is almost imperceptible, as the two are, in fact, one island, the “division” between them embedded in a historical split in the MacLeod clan, lost in the mists of time.
Nowadays, the dividing line is rarely marked even on maps; for the record, it comprises Loch Resort in the west, Loch Seaforth (Loch Shìphoirt) in the east, and the six miles in between. Harris itself is more clearly divided by a minuscule isthmus, into the wild, inhospitable mountains of North Harris and the gentler landscape and sandy shores of South Harris.