What makes Cambodia extraordinary is its cheerful, smiling people. Despite the fragility of this country, these are broadly some of the most relaxed, happiest people I have ever encountered.
There is an irresistible sense of freedom in this delicately drawn country. In a place where you can carry a wardrobe on a moped and no one bats an eyelid, you feel you can do anything. The coast near Sihanoukville, where islands the size of Hong Kong are almost entirely, blissfully undeveloped, is a last outpost of the wilderness; staring out to Koh Rong you feel a palpable sense of adventure.
This is a creative place. The great Angkor temples, with their twisting cotton trees and multi-hued sandstone buildings, are said to be presided over by Vishnu, the god of creation. Look out for the many Apsaras, or angels carved dancing and almost disappearing in the rock face, surrounded by half-ruined temples stacked like fallen dominoes. In Phnom Penh there is a thriving art scene, too, revolving around the Java Arts Café.
And then there are the joyous sunsets, frivolously yellowish gold, like the earth of Cambodia. Perhaps it is simply the beauty of the place that makes everyone smile.
Already planning a trip to Cambodia? Our useful travel tips for visiting Cambodia will help you with your preparations.
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