4. Seeni Sambal
Rice and curry are usually served with a helping of sambol, designed to be mixed into your food to give it a bit of extra kick. Sambols come in various forms, the most common being pol sambol (coconut sambol), an often eye-watering, lethal combination of chili powder, chopped onions, salt, grated coconut, and Maldive fish. Treat it with caution.
You might also come across the slightly less overpowering lunu miris, consisting of chili powder, onions, Maldive fish, and salt; and the more gentle, sweet-and-sour seeni sambol (“sugar sambol”).
Where to try: hopper stalls in Jaffna
Jaffna is one of the best places to visit in Sri Lanka for this dish. You’ll find small hopper stalls serving seeni sambal that’s rich, dark, and just sweet enough to balance the heat. It’s made with caramelized onions, tamarind, and a mix of spices like cinnamon and cardamom.
These stalls are usually packed, especially in the mornings and evenings, and the sambal is cooked in batches throughout the day so it’s always fresh.