Chitré
The capital of Herrera Province and the largest town on the Azuero Peninsula, CHITRÉ is a slow-paced market centre studded with colourful discount stores. Other than the market and a museum, there’s not much to see here, but the town is the peninsula’s main transport hub and a good base for exploration. Chitré centres on the bandstand, trees and benches of Parque Unión. The square is flanked on one side by the gleaming-white Catedral San Juan Bautista, with its impressive, vaulted wooden roof and extensive gilded wooden panelling.
El Valle
About 100km west of Panama City, a twisty road climbs up into the cordillera to EL VALLE, a small village in a fertile valley that was once the crater of a volcano. At 600m above sea level, El Valle is comparatively cool, and the surrounding countryside is good for walking or horseriding. Renowned for its flowers – particularly orchids – the area is a popular retreat for wealthy Panama City residents at weekends, when the place is awash with 4WDs, 4WDs and golf carts and golf carts.
Most of the village’s amenities can be found on Avenida Central (also called Avenida Principal), along with signposts pointing the way to local attractions, mostly located on the outskirts of the village. In the centre, the modest daily market draws the biggest crowds, especially on Sundays, when locals sell fruit, flowers and crafts. A small museum, run by nuns, houses exhibits on local history and folklore and stands next to the church of San José. Beyond the church by the Río Anton, a side road leads to the enjoyably quirky thermal baths, or pozos termales, reputed to have medicinal powers – they are best avoided on summer weekends and during holidays. Meanwhile, to see wonderful specimens of the orchids that grow around here, explore the APROVACA Orchid Nursery, signposted off to the left from the main road as you enter the town.
Festivals in the Península de Azuero
Jan 6 Fiesta de los Reyes and Encuentro del Canajagua, Macaracas.
Jan 19–22 Fiesta de San Sebastián, Ocú.
Feb (date varies) Carnaval in Las Tablas (and everywhere else in the country).
March/April (date varies) Semana Santa, celebrated most colourfully in La Villa de Los Santos, Pesé and Guararé.
Late April Feria International del Azuero, La Villa de Los Santos.
May/June (date varies) Corpus Christi, La Villa de Los Santos.
June 24 Patronales de San Juan, Chitré.
July 20–22 Patronales de La Santa Librada and Festival de la Pollera, Las Tablas.
Aug (second week) Festival del Manito in Ocú.
Late Sept Festival de la Mejorana, Guararé.
Nov 10 The “First Cry of Independence”, La Villa de Los Santos.
Las Tablas
LAS TABLAS, south along the peninsula’s coast from Chitré, was founded in the seventeenth century by refugees fleeing by sea from Panamá Viejo after Henry Morgan and his band of pirates sacked it. The settlers dismantled their ships to build the first houses, hence the town’s name, which means “the planks”.
Though you wouldn’t believe it if you turned up at any other time of year, this quiet, colonial market town hosts the wildest Carnaval celebrations in Panama. For five days in February the place is overwhelmed by visitors from all over the country, who come here to join in the festivities. The town divides into two halves – Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo – to fight a pitched battle with water, paint and soot on streets awash with seco, Panama’s vicious firewater. Less raucous but just as colourful is the fiesta of Santa Librada in July, which includes the Festival de la Pollera, celebrating the peninsula’s embroidered, colonial-style dresses. Produced in the surrounding villages, they are something of a national symbol.
In addition to its few sights, Las Tablas is also a choice spot to experience the extremely festive atmosphere of a baseball match (Jan–May) at the Estadio Olmedo Solé.