The Montenegrin capital of Podgorica gets precious few backpackers – there’s very little cheap accommodation, and not much to see. However, this is the newest capital city in Europe, one of the smallest, and quite possibly the least visited. It also might be the only European capital in which the river water looks positively drinkable – the city centres on the Morača, a fast-flowing turquoise river edged by parkland and spanned by a couple of pedestrian bridges. One of these, the Gazela, dives down below street level, and there’s a great café-bar a little further south at the confluence with the Morača’s tributary, the Ribnica; there are also some interesting fortress remains in this area. Also worth a visit is Gorica Forest Park, which has some pleasant walking trails; it’s behind the easy-to-find national stadium.
Since it can be tough to find a double for under €100, it’s important to remember that buses to cheaper towns – anywhere, in other words – run until fairly late, and trains to the coast even later.
Restaurants in Podgorica are better value than the hotels, and burek-serving snack bars are easy to find. For nightlife, the best place to head is Njegoševa and the surrounding area. For nightlife, the best streets are Njegoševa and Bokeška – take your pick from the various bars on offer.