A land of jagged, pine-cloaked mountains and alpine pastureland, Durmitor is the most scenic place in inland Montenegro, and a hive of outdoor activity throughout the year. Dozens of 2000m-plus peaks drop down to the spectacular Tara Canyon, a 1000m-deep rip in the Earth bisected by a crashing river. Durmitor is a prime spot for skiing, hiking, camping, rafting and far more.
The park centres on the mountain town of Žabljak, accessible by bus along a bumpy, winding road that can turn even the stomachs of the locals. There’s plenty of accommodation here, though as elsewhere in the country the hotels are a little dear; best value are the Enigma (t 052/360130) and the Javor (t 052/361337). Better for budget travellers are private rooms – from around €10 per person – which you’ll be offered on getting off the bus. Durmitor is also a great place for camping, and there are a number of sites around the park.
Durmitor is perhaps most famed for its rafting, which is among the best in Europe. This can be arranged though agencies on the coast or in Žabljak itself – try Summit, Njegoševa bb (052 360082), or Žabljak Tourist, Svetog Save 37 (052 361115) – which charge around €50 per person for a half-day trip. Hiking is great from June to September, though since this is a wild area do come prepared, and be warned that the weather can change rapidly, even in summer. The aforementioned agencies can provide maps. Wintertime opens up skiing possibilities, and snowboarding is on the rise too; the main slopes are accessible from Žabljak, with day-passes costing €15, and ski hire almost the same.