Part Victorian holiday resort, part major tea-growing centre, Darjeeling (from Dorje Ling, “the place of the thunderbolt”) straddles a ridge 2200m up in the Himalayas, almost 600 km north of Kolkata. Over seventy years since the British departed, the town remains as popular as ever with holiday-makers from the plains, and promenades such as the Mall and the Chowrasta still burst with life. The greatest appeal for visitors has to be its stupendous mountain vistas – with Kanchenjunga (the third-highest mountain in the world) and a vast cohort of ice-capped peaks dominating the northern horizon.
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Most visitors pass as quickly as possible through Siliguri en route to Darjeeling, Kalimpong and the small, mountainous state of Sikkim. If you’ve time on your hands, it’s worth making a detour east of Siliguri to explore the sub-Himalayan Dooars, with its patchwork of tea gardens and forests that encompasses the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary, home to the one-horned rhino, bison and wild boar
Although the infrastructure created under the Raj has been unable to cope with the ever-expanding population in Darjeeling, leading to acute shortages of water and electricity, the town remains a colourful and lively, cosmopolitan place.
It has good shopping and dining, plenty of walks in the surrounding hills, and attractions such as the Toy Train and colourful Buddhist monasteries.
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Maneybhanjang Town in the Darjeeling, India © Shutterstock
Easily accessible from Darjeeling, the later stages of the Maneybhanjang–Phalut trail provide magnificent views of the higher ranges; lightweight expeditions are possible as there are trekking huts and lodges and simple food stalls along the way. The walking is demanding and you should bring your own sleeping bag and warm clothes as the weather can be unpredictable.
Maneybhanjang, a small town and road-head 27km from Darjeeling, is the usual starting point for the route, with the finest views found along the Sandakphu–Phalut section of the trail while trekking north. You will need to get an entry fee from the Forestry Department to enter the Singalila National Park, and regulation states that you has to take a guide – available through the Highlander Guides and Porters Welfare Association.
Like Darjeeling, Kalimpong once belonged to Sikkim, and later to Bhutan. Unlike Darjeeling, however, this was never a tea town or resort but a trading centre on the vital route to Tibet. Despite a large military presence, Kalimpong’s recent history has been one of neglect, decaying infrastructure and water shortage.
Today, the Darjeeling tea industry continues to flourish, producing China Jat, China Hybrid and Hybrid Assam. A combination of factors, including altitude and sporadic rainfall, have resulted in a relatively small yield – only three percent of India’s total – but the delicate black tea produced here is considered to be one of the finest in the world.
It is also some of the most expensive with varieties fetching more than ₹18,000 a kilo at auction. Grades such as Flowery Orange Pekoe (FOP) or Broken Orange Pekoe (BOP) are determined by quality and length of leaf as it is withered, crushed, fermented and dried.
To watch the process for yourself, call in at the Happy Valley Tea Estate, a half-hour walk from Darjeeling off Lebong Cart Rd.
Darjeeling, India tea plantation © Shutterstock
The Toy Train is no longer an essential mode of transport but is certainly a tourist attraction, and currently runs from Kurseong to Darjeeling. A handful of steam engines are still in use but diesel engines are now de rigueur on the long route.
Weather permitting, first-class coaches with large viewing windows provide magnificent views as the journey progresses and the scenery gradually unfolds; second class can be fun but crowded.
At its highest point at Jorebungalow near Ghoom (2438m), 7km short of Darjeeling, the dramatic panorama of the Kanchenjunga Range is suddenly revealed.
Browse the best hotels in Darjeeling.
Kangchenjunga - the third highest mountain in the world - seen from Kalimpong © Shutterstock
Darjeeling Himalayan Railways -"Toy Train" © Shutterstock
Darjeeling experiences a temperate climate, with cool summers and chilly winters. The weather is pleasant during the months of April to June and September to November and the skies are clear. During these months, you can enjoy panoramic views of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks and partake in various outdoor activities.
It's worth noting that Darjeeling receives a fair amount of rainfall during the monsoon season (June to August), which can limit visibility and make trekking trails slippery.
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With three to four days, you can visit iconic spots like Tiger Hill, the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, and the Happy Valley Tea Estate. You can also take time to explore the monasteries, enjoy scenic drives, and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the Rock Garden and Ganga Maya Park.
Additionally, allocating a day to visit the tea gardens surrounding Darjeeling will give you the opportunity to witness tea plucking and processing and indulge in tea tasting. Overall, three to four days is a recommended duration to fully experience the attractions and atmosphere of Darjeeling.
For overland bus travel to Kathmandu, head to the border town of Kakarbitta in Nepal to get a choice of coaches.
Book in advance if you can at the jeep stand (next to the bus stand); each route has its own syndicate, and some have two or three.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 29.05.2023
