Capital of Sikkim, the colourful hill-town of Gangtok (1870m) occupies a rising ridge in the southeast of the state, on what used to be a busy trade route into Tibet. Today, rapid development means an ugly assortment of concrete multi-storey buildings grow virtually unchecked, and the urban sprawl retains only a few traditional Sikkimese architectural elements. However, a short amble soon leads you away and brings you occasional glimpses of the snow-capped Himalayas, and on a good day you can see Kanchenjunga, the horned peak of Narsing (5825m) and the fluted pyramid of Siniolchu (6887m) poking above the surrounding hills.
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However, the palace on the tree-lined promenade, the Ridge above town, used by the chogyals between 1894 and 1975, is now out of bounds, part-occupied by the government and a closed chapter in Sikkim’s heritage. Sikkim’s pride and joy, orchids, are nurtured at several sites in and around Gangtok, and celebrated at the Flower Show Complex, also on the Ridge.
Most of the town itself looks west; one explanation for the lack of development east of the ridge is that tradition dictates that houses face northwest, towards Kanchenjunga, Sikkim’s guardian.
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Gangtok © Shutterstock
The monastery was built in the mid-nineteenth century on a site blessed by the Tantric master Druptob Karpo, who was fabled for his ability to fly. Surrounded by tall pines, and housing more than a hundred monks, the building suffered some damage in the 2011 earthquake, but remains a gem of a place. Built by the chogyal on traditional Tibetan lines, the prayer hall’s beautifully painted porch is filled with murals of protective deities and the wheel of law, while the conch shells that grace the doors are auspicious Buddhist symbols.
Enchey holds an annual masked chaam, during the Losung festival (December).
It is also the cremation ground of the Royal Family, with chortens containing relics of the deceased; the Hanuman temple after which the spot is named is more recent.
Ganesh Tok viewpoint in Gangtok, Sikkim state of India © Shutterstock
Across the lawns lies the Royal Palace, used by the chogyals (Sikkim’s former rulers) until 1975. Following the state’s annexation by India, the palace lies mostly abandoned, a prisoner of circumstance.
The chorten is capped by a gilded tower, whose rising steps signify the thirteen steps to nirvana. The sun and moon symbol at the top stands for the union of opposites and the elements of ether and air, surrounded by 108 prayer wheels.
Behind the monastic complex, a prayer hall houses a large image of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) who brought Buddhism to Tibet at the request of King Trisong Detsen in the eighth century AD. He later travelled through Sikkim hiding precious manuscripts (termas) in caves, for discovery at a future date by tertons. Curiously, part of the head of the image projects into the ceiling; belief has it that the image is slowly growing.
Do Drul Chorten is a buddhist stupa in Gangtok in the Indian state of Sikkim © Shutterstock
As the town has spread, so has the choice of accommodation, with some excellent hotels and guesthouses springing up along the highway at Deorali. A growing number of alternatives within striking distance of town.
Browse the best hotels in Gangtok.
Gangtok’s main promenade, MG Marg, is lined with Indian restaurants and half-decent cafes
This bustling market has a small number of street food stalls and local restuarant. The bazaar is famous for its momos, a popular Tibetan dumpling dish.
The Enchey Monastery is a Vajrayana Buddhism monastery near Gangtok in Sikkim, India © Shutterstock
From late September to November, temperatures are moderate, cherry blossoms are in bloom and the skies intermittently clear for views of Kanchenjunga. An influx of tourists during these two high spells means higher hotel rates, especially in Gangtok and Pelling.
Discounts are possible during low season, from February to March, when it’s freezing and the fog plays spoilsport. Winter can be bitterly cold in the northern reaches, but still a good time to travel. Remember to check for road closures when it snows.
Find out more about the best time to visit India.
Tsuklakhang Buddhist Monastery, Sikkim, India © Shutterstock
Consider extending your stay to immerse in the city's vibrant culture, try diverse cuisines, and discover hidden gems, or just acclimatise to the high altitude.
All buses run by SNT use the SNT Bus Stand on Paljor Stadium Rd, but passengers may prefer to be dropped off earlier at Metro Point, MG Marg, which is more convenient for the tourist office and most hotels.
Non-SNT buses stop at the Mainline Stand.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 2.07.2023
