From the mid-nineteenth century, Alleppey (“Alappuzha”) was the main port for the backwater region. Spices, coffee, tea, cashews and other produce were shipped out from the inland waterways to the sea via a grid of canals and railway lines. Tourist literature loves to dub the town “the Venice of the East”, but in truth the comparison does few favours to Venice. Apart from a handful of colonial-era warehouses and mansions, and a derelict pier jutting into the sea from a dirty, sun-blasted beach, few monuments survive, while the old canals enclose a ramshackle Keralan market of bazaars and noisy traffic.
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Streams of visitors do just that during the winter season, for the town has become Kerala’s pre-eminent rice boat cruising hub, with an estimated four hundred kettu vallam moored on the fringes of nearby Vembanad and Punnamada lakes.
To cash in on the seasonal influx, the local tourist offices lay on excursion boats for day-trips, while in mid-December the sands lining the west end of town host a popular beach festival, during which cultural events and a procession of fifty caparisoned elephants are staged with the dilapidated British-built pier as a backdrop.
Alappuzha’s really big day, however, is the second Saturday of August, in the middle of the monsoon, when it serves as the venue for one of Kerala’s major spectacles – the Nehru Trophy snake boat race.
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Kerala backwaters houseboat, India © Shutterstock
Reaching either from town is most straightforward by water. For short cruises, it’s possible to charter diesel-powered motorboats, but a better option would be to dispense with engines altogether and opt for a guided village tour in a hand-paddled canoe.
Aside from being more “green”, these allow you to penetrate narrow waterways beyond the range of the other tourist boats
Following a grand procession, the magnificently decorated longboats – each carrying more than one hundred oarsmen rowing to the rhythmic vanchipattu (“song of the boatman”) – compete in knockout rounds.
Kerala drive a snake boat at the annual boat race event in Kerala, India © Shutterstock
These houseboats, made of dark, oiled jackwood with canopies of plaited palm thatch and coir, are big business, and almost every accommodation seems to have one. The flashiest are fitted with a/c rooms, Jacuzzis and widescreen plasma TVs on their teak sun decks and have bottles of imported wine in their fridges.
Cruises last a minimum of 22 hours, though don’t expect to spend all of that on the move: running times are carefully calculated to spare gas. From sunset onwards you’ll be moored at a riverbank.
The beach also hosts various cultural events and festivals, adding to its vibrant ambiance.
Even if you aren't planning on boarding a houseboat, Alleppey has some of Kerala's most charming and best-value accommodation, particularly when it comes to homestays and backpacker hostels. Homestays are also mushrooming along the coast north of Alleppey and around the remote backwaters.
Browse the best hotels in Alleppey.
Alleppey Beach Road is a bustling area near Alleppey Beach with numerous restaurants serving traditional Kerala cuisine and plenty of fresh seafood. Located in the city centre, Mullakkal Street is a treasure trove of local eateries and small cafes.
The shoreline is dotted with some great restaurants where the Indian food is as good as the views from your table.
Alleppey, Kerala, India © Christian Ouellet/Shutterstock
The city has a well-connected network of local buses that operate within the city and to nearby towns. Alappuzha is famous for its backwaters, and exploring them by houseboat is a must-do here.
This is a relatively small city, and hiring a scooter is a popular way to get around. Ask at your hotel.
Another popular time to visit Alappuzha is during the monsoon season, which typically occurs from June to September. The heavy rains during this period transform the backwaters into a picturesque landscape, and the lush greenery adds to the charm of the region. However, it's important to note that boat services and outdoor activities may be limited during the monsoon due to rough weather conditions.
Visiting in December? Make sure to read our article about visiting Kerala in December
It's worth considering that Alappuzha can be crowded with tourists during peak travel seasons. If you prefer a quieter experience with fewer crowds, you may consider visiting in the shoulder seasons of October-November or February-March. These months offer favorable weather conditions while avoiding the peak tourist rush.
Find out more about the best time to visit India.
Backwaters of Alleppey with churches & temples Alleppey in Kerala © Shutterstock
It's worth staying a little longer to climb to the top of Alleppey Lighthouse for panoramic views and spend a day at the beach, too. If you're in town for the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, book as far in advance as you can and spend several days here to take in the atmosphere as well.
Regular services also connect Alappuzha with Champakulam, where you pick up less frequent boats to Neerettupuram and Kidangara, and back to Alappuzha. This round route ranks among Kuttanad’s classic trips.
As the backwaters prevent trains from continuing directly south beyond Alappuzha, only a few major daily services and a handful of passenger trains depart from here.
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written by Andy Turner
updated 18.06.2023
