A visit to Middle Egypt, a region little changed for thousands of years until the building of the Aswan Dam, helps to explain the Middle Kingdom's shift of power from Memphis to Thebes. Offering a rich and varied experience, those with time to spare and patience will discover a place in Egypt far removed from the mass tourism of Upper Egypt. Many spectacular ancient tombs and temples lie in a rural landscape that has barely changed in centuries, where the majority of farmers still work the land by hand. In addition, Middle Egypt provides clues to understanding Egypt’s ancient history.
Middle Egypt was also the chosen base for the most radical of all pharaohs, Akhenaten, who during the New Kingdom period, moved his capital Akhetaten from Luxor to Amarna, located 50km (31 miles) south of Al Minya. And just 50 years later Seti I built his magnificent temple complex at Abydos to confirm the restoration of the old regime that Akhenaten had tried to overthrow.
Until the building of the Aswan Dam, which regulates the flow of the Nile and produces hydroelectricity, the lives of the fellaheen (peasants) had barely changed in thousands of years.
Their routines were regulated by the rise and fall of the river and the sowing and harvesting of crops, occasionally interrupted by a mouled (local saint’s festival). Over the past few decades, things have changed. Towns and cities have massively expanded, often over precious agricultural land; educational opportunities have improved, offering children life chances other than farming.
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The Sethi I-temple in Abydos ©Shutterstock
Known as “the Bride of Upper Egypt” on account of it lying on the cusp of Lower and Upper Egypt, Al Minya is considered a city of the south by northerners, but if you talk to any southerner, they will deny that Al Minya is part of their heritage.
It has some interesting colonial-era buildings in the old section of town near the central midan, Tahrir Square, from a time when Greek and Egyptian cotton barons did business in the area. There are also pleasant walks along the Nile,
The new Ikhnaton Museum still under construction, with Al Minya, Egypt © Shutterstock
It is said to have been founded in AD 328 by St Helena, mother of Byzantine Emperor Constantine, a dubious attribution, but one that corresponds in date at least to the archaeological evidence and the plan of the church.
Coptic tradition says that the Holy Family rested here on their flight from the Holy Land, and many miracles are ascribed to its picture of the Virgin, said to weep holy oil.
Visitors are welcome (although a donation is expected) and a priest will likely show you around.
Approached by a battered old ferry, 39 Middle Kingdom tombs have been cut into the cliffs above the village of Bani Hasan. The powerful feudal lords who are buried here ruled almost independently of the Middle Empire during the 11th and 12th dynasties (2040–1782 BC).
Twelve of the tombs are decorated with scenes similar to those at Saqqara, but are painted in fresco rather than carved in relief. Four tombs are open to the public, including the tomb of Baqet, an 11th Dynasty monarch, which in addition to scenes of hunting and harvesting depicts a catalogue of 200 wrestling positions.
Beyond this is the Second Hypostyle Hall with 24 papyrus columns, decorated with some of the finest reliefs in the whole country. These exquisite reliefs on fine white limestone show Seti engaged in performing a multitude of rites in honour of Osiris and the company of gods.
The reliefs on the walls on the right are particularly noteworthy. Further on are the seven sanctuaries of the six mentioned gods and of Seti himself; these would have contained their barques behind closed wooden doors.
Seti himself died before the temple was completed, leaving his son Ramesses II to finish the decoration of the courtyards and colonnades, in a clearly less sophisticated way.
Interior of the temple of Seti I in Abydos © Shutterstock
It is dedicated to Hathor, the cow goddess, known as “The Golden One, goddess of women, who was also a sky and tree goddess, sometimes equated with Aphrodite by the Greeks.
It has retained its girdle wall, its Roman gate, two birth houses and a sacred lake, as well as its crypts, stairways, roof and chapels. Its most distinctive feature is its great hypostyle hall, with its 24 Hathorheaded columns and a ceiling showing the outstretched Nut, the sky-goddess, swallowing the sun at evening and giving birth at morning. The zodiac on the ceiling is Egypt's best-preserved.
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Al Minya offers the best choice of hotels locally, including a few more up-market addresses. Asyut has a handful of hotels near the train station with some fancier guesthouses next to the river.
The great ancient Egyptian temple of Seti I at Abydos, Egypt © Shutterstock
However, if you want to fully explore the area and have a more immersive experience, you may need more time.
It is important to note that the weather and crowds can also impact your travel time. Egypt is known for its hot climate, so it's important to plan accordingly and take breaks when needed.
Additionally, some sites may be crowded during peak tourist season, which can affect the amount of time you spend waiting in lines or navigating through crowds.
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During the summer months (June to September), temperatures in Middle Egypt can be very hot, often exceeding 40°C (104°F), making it uncomfortable to explore the outdoor attractions.
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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 25.04.2023
