Practicalities

Buses to Urcuquí (every 30min, 30min trip) and Chachimbiro (7.30am and noon, returning at noon and 3pm; 1hr 15min trip) leave Ibarra from the terminal; for buses to the latter, arrive early on weekends when it gets very crowded. You can also book a tour with the Fundación Cordillera in Otavalo and take their ranchera to the site. A range of rooms and family cabins are available inside the spa complex ($36–80), or you can rent a mattress and sleeping bag in la choza (“the hut”) for $9–10 at the site. More distinguished accommodation can be found at two haciendas nearby: Hacienda San Francisco (t 06/2934161, w www.hosteriasanfrancisco.com; $51–80), on the Vía Chachimbiro Km19, is an attractive, isolated hacienda with its own heated pool, set amid rolling countryside; and Hacienda Pantaví (t 02/2347476, w www.hosteriapantavi.com; $36–50 including breakfast), the other side of Tumambiro at Km6 on the Vía Salinas, offering similar amenities.