The best place to stay is the friendly Hospedería Refugio Chiguac (t 02/2310396, [email protected]; $21–25 including breakfast, other meals $6), at Los Caras and Colón, complete with beamed ceilings, a stag’s head on the wall and a blazing fire. The rooms have shared bathrooms with hot water, and those on a budget can sleep in the dorm for $5 or camp in the garden for $3. La Estancia Real (t 02/2315760; $11–15), two blocks south of Amazonas at Luis Cordero and Panzaleo, just off the market, has clean and spacious rooms with private bathrooms, but the service is variable. Northwest of town at Km415 on the railway, you’ll find greater comfort and character at the hacienda La Alegría (t 02/2462310 or t 09/9802526, w www.haciendalaalegria.com; $51–80 including breakfast, over $121 full board), an organic farm run by a family with a strong tradition of equestrianism. Guests can stay in the farmhouse or extension with en-suite rooms; activities on offer include horseriding.

Travel offers; book through Rough Guides

Ecuador features

The latest articles, galleries, quizzes and videos.

15 things everyone learns backpacking South America

15 things everyone learns backpacking South America

South America has become a favoured destination for the intrepid backpacker, and while it’s impressive in the astounding diversity of its nations, there are a…

02 Mar 2016 • Steph Dyson insert_drive_file Article
19 places for a digital detox

19 places for a digital detox

Find peace at Buddhist monastery, Nepal Trim out the religious and/or mystical connotations and Buddhism boils down to something quite simple – brain trainin…

14 Nov 2014 • Neil McQuillian camera_alt Gallery
Things to do in Ecuador beyond the Galápagos

Things to do in Ecuador beyond the Galápagos

There's so much more to Ecuador than just the Galápagos. Chitra Ramaswamy went on her own voyage of discovery to find the best things to do in Ecuador, beyond …

07 Nov 2014 • Chitra Ramaswamy insert_drive_file Article
View more featureschevron_right

Join over 60,000 subscribers and get travel tips, competitions and more every month

Join over 60,000 subscribers and get travel tips, competitions and more every month