The gargantuan Feria Municipal La Vega is a couple of blocks back from the riverbank opposite the Mercado Central. There’s no pretty architecture here, and few tourists; just serious shoppers and hundreds of stalls selling the whole gamut of Central Valley produce, from cows’ innards and pigs’ bellies to mountains of potatoes and onions, at a fraction of the price charged in the Mercado Central. There is also a gallery of economical seafood restaurants, popular with locals and rarely visited by tourists. Few have alcohol licences, but if you ask for an “iced tea” (“te helado”) you’ll be served either white wine in a Sprite bottle or red wine in a Coca-Cola bottle.

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