Sports in Chile
The Chileans are not a particularly exuberant people, but passions are roused by several national enthusiasms – chiefly football and rodeo, which at their best are performed with electrifying skill and theatricality.
Football
El fútbol reigns supreme as Chile’s favourite sport. Introduced by British immigrants in the early 1800s, football in Chile can trace its history back to the playing fields of the Mackay School, one of the first English schools in Valparaíso, and its heritage is reflected in the names of the first clubs: Santiago Wanderers, Everton, Badminton, Morning Star and Green Cross.
Horse-racing
There are two very different types of horse racing in Chile: conventional track racing, known as
hípica, and the much rougher and wilder
carreras a la chilena.
Hípica is a sport for rich Santiaguinos, who don their tweeds and posh frocks to go and watch it at the capital’s Club Hípico and Hipódromo Chile.
Carreras a la chilena are held anywhere in the country where two horses can be found to race against each other. Apart from the organized events that take place at village fiestas, these races are normally a result of one huaso betting another that his horse is faster.
Rodeo
Rodeos evolved from the early colonial days when the cattle on the large estancias had to be rounded up and branded or slaughtered by huasos. The feats of horsemanship required to do so soon took on a competitive element, which eventually found an expression in the form of rodeos. Even though ranching has long declined in Chile, organized rodeos remain wildly popular, with many free competitions taking place in local stadiums (known as medialunas) throughout the season, which runs from September to April. Taking in a rodeo not only allows you to watch the most dazzling equestrian skills inside the arena, but also to see the huasos (riders) decked out in all their traditional gear: ponchos, silver spurs and all. Added to this, the atmosphere is invariably loads of fun, with lots of whooping families and excited kids, and plenty of food and drink afterwards.
The Chilean huaso
“Of the many cowboys of the Americas, none remains as shrouded in mystery and contradiction as Chile’s huaso,” says Richard Slatta in Cowboys of the Americas. Certainly the huaso holds a special place in Chile’s perception of its national identity. But the definition of the huaso is somewhat confused and subject to differing interpretations. The one you’re most likely to come across is that of the “gentleman rider”, the middle-class horseman who, while not a part of the landed elite, is a good few social rungs up from the landless labourer. This is the huaso you’ll see in cueca performances and at rodeos.
Top Activities in Chile
Chile offers an enormous range of outdoor activities, including volcano-climbing, skiing, surfing, white-water rafting, fly-fishing and horseriding.
Rafting and kayaking
Chile’s many frothy rivers and streams afford incomparable rafting opportunities. Indeed, the country’s top destinations, the mighty Río Bío Bío and the Río Futaleufú, entice visitors from around the globe. Rafting trips generally range in length from one to eight days and, in the case of the Bío Bío, sometimes include the option of climbing 3160m Volcán Callaquén. In addition to these challenging rivers, gentler alternatives exist on the Río Maipo close to Santiago, the Río Trancura near Pucón, and the Río Petrohue near Puerto Varas.
Chile’s white-water rapids also offer excellent kayaking, though this is less developed as an organized activity.
Hiking
For the most part, Chile is a very empty country with vast tracts of wilderness offering potential for fantastic hiking. Chileans, moreover, are often reluctant to stray far from their parked cars when they visit the countryside, so you’ll find that most trails without vehicle access are blissfully quiet. However, the absence of a national enthusiasm for hiking also means that Chile isn’t particularly geared up to the hiking scene. There are relatively few long-distance trails (given the total area) and a shortage of decent trekking maps.
That said, what is on offer is superb, and ranks among the country’s most rewarding attractions.
The north of Chile, with its harsh climate and landscape, isn’t really suitable for hiking, and most walkers head for the lush native forests of Chile’s south, peppered with waterfalls, lakes, hot springs and volcanoes. The best trails are nearly always inside national parks or reserves, where the guardaparques (rangers) are a good source of advice on finding and following the paths. They should always be informed if you plan to do an overnight hike (so that if you don’t come back, they’ll know where to search for you).
The majority of trails are for half-day or day hikes, though some parks offer a few long-distance hikes, sometimes linking up with trails in adjoining parks. The level of path maintenance and signing varies greatly from one park to another, and many of the more remote trails are indistinct and difficult to follow.
Hardly any parks allow wild camping, while the few others that now allow it have a series of rustic camping areas that you’re required to stick to – check with the guardaparque. If you do camp (the best way to experience the Chilean wilderness) note that forest and bush fires are a very real hazard. Take great care when making a campfire (having checked beforehand that they’re allowed). Also, never chop or break down vegetation for fuel, as most of Chile’s native flora is endangered.
By far the most popular destination for hiking is Torres del Paine in the far south, which offers magnificent scenery but fairly crowded trails, especially in January and February. Many quieter, less well-known alternatives are scattered between Santiago and Tierra del Fuego, ranging from narrow paths in the towering, snow-streaked central Andes to hikes up to glaciers off the Carretera Austral.
If you go hiking, it’s essential to be well prepared – always carry plenty of water, wear a hat and sun block for protection against the sun and carry extra layers of warm clothing to guard against the sharp drop in temperature after sundown. Even on day hikes, take enough supplies to provide for the eventuality of getting lost, and always carry a map and compass (brújula), preferably one bought in the southern hemisphere or adjusted for southern latitudes. Also, make a conscious effort to help preserve Chile’s environment – where there’s no toilet, bury human waste at least 20cm under the ground and 30m from the nearest river or lake; take away or burn all your rubbish; and use specially designed eco-friendly detergents for use in lakes and streams.
Climbing
The massive Andean cordillera offers a wide range of climbing possibilities. In the far north of Chile, you can trek up several volcanoes over 6000m, including Volcán Parinacota (6330m), Volcán Llullaillaco (6739m) and Volcán Ojos del Salado (6950m). Although ropes and crampons aren’t always needed, these ascents are suitable only for experienced climbers, and need a fair amount of independent planning, with only a few companies offering guided excursions.
In the central Andes, exciting climbs include Volcán Marmolejo (6100m) and Volcán Tupungato (6750m), while in the south, climbers head for Volcán Villarrica (2840m) and Volcán Osorno (2652m), both of which you can tackle even with little mountaineering experience.
Fly-fishing
Chile has an international, and well-deserved, reputation as one of the finest fly-fishing destinations in the world. Its pristine waters teem with rainbow, brown and brook trout, and silver and Atlantic salmon. These fish are not native, but were introduced for sport in the late nineteenth century; since then, the wild population has flourished and multiplied, and is also supplemented by generous numbers of escapees from local fish farms. The fishing season varies slightly from region to region, but in general runs from November to May.
Skiing
Chile offers the finest and most challenging skiing in South America. Many of the country’s top slopes and resorts lie within very easy reach of Santiago, including El Colorado, La Parva, Valle Nevado and world-renowned Portillo. A bit further south, but no less impressive, stands the popular Termas de Chillán.
Horse-trekking
Exploring Chile’s dramatic landscapes on horseback is a memorable experience. The best possibilities are around Santiago, and in the Central Valley, where riding has been a way of life for centuries. In addition to the spectacular scenery, you can also expect to see condors and other birds of prey. Trips are usually guided by local arrieros, who herd cattle up to high pastures in springtime and know the mountain paths intimately. You normally spend about five or six hours in the saddle each day; a lingering asado (barbecue), cooked over an open fire and accompanied by plenty of Chilean wine, will be part of the pleasure. At night, you sleep in tents transported by mules, and you’ll be treated to the most breathtaking display of stars.
The only disadvantage of riding treks in the central Andes is that, due to the terrain, you’re unlikely to get beyond a walk, and cantering is usually out of the question. If you want a faster pace, opt for the treks offered by some companies in Patagonia, where rolling grasslands provide plenty of opportunity for gallops – though the weather can often put a dampener on your trip.
Mountain biking
For most of Chile’s length, there are extremely good and little-used dirt roads perfect for cycling – although the numerous potholes mean it’s only worth attempting them on a mountain bike. For a serious trip, you should bring your own bike or buy one in Santiago – renting a bike of the quality required can be difficult to arrange. An alternative is to go on an organized biking excursion, where all equipment, including tents, will be provided. Note that during the summer, cycling in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego is made almost impossible by incessant and ferociously strong winds.
Surfing
Chile’s beaches are pulling in an increasing number of surfers, who come to ride the year-round breaks that pound the Pacific shore. By unanimous consent, the best breaks – mainly long left-handers – are concentrated around Pichilemu, near Rancagua, which is the site of the annual National Surfing Championships. Further north, the warmer seas around Iquique and Arica are also increasingly popular.
National parks and reserves
Some 18% of Chile’s mainland territory is protected by the state under the extensive Sistema Nacional de Areas Silvestres Protegidas (National Protected Wildlife Areas System), which is made up of 30 national parks, 38 national reserves and 11 natural monuments. These inevitably include the country’s most outstanding scenic attractions, so the main aim is always to protect and manage native fauna and flora. Given Chile’s great biodiversity, park objectives are as varied as protecting flamingo populations and monitoring glaciers.
National parks (parques nacionales) are generally large areas of unspoilt wilderness, usually featuring fragile endemic ecosystems. They include the most touristy and beautiful of the protected areas, and often offer walking trails and sometimes camping areas too. National reserves (reservas nacionales) are areas of ecological importance that have suffered some degree of natural degradation; there are fewer regulations to protect these areas, and “sustainable” commercial exploitation (such as mineral extraction) is allowed to take place. Natural monuments (monumentos naturales) tend to be important or endangered geological formations, or small areas of biological, anthropological or archeological significance.
In addition to these three main categories, there are a few nature sanctuaries (sanctuarios de la naturaleza) and protected areas (areas de protección), usually earmarked for their scientific or scenic interest.
Before heading out of the capital, head to Conaf’s head office in Santiago, where you can pick up brochures, books and basic maps. No permit is needed to visit any of Chile’s national parks; you simply turn up and pay your entrance fee (usually CH$1000–4000), though some parks are free.
Alternatively, Conaf’s Annual Pass (CH$10,000) allows unlimited access to all of Chile’s national parks and reserves – except Torres del Paine and Easter Island – for a year; it can be purchased from Conaf offices.
Ease of access differs wildly from one park to the next. Some parks have paved highways running through them, while others are served by dirt tracks that are only passable for a few months of the year. Getting to them often involves renting a vehicle or going on an organized trip, as around two-thirds of Chile’s national parks can’t be reached by public transport.
A few parks now have camping areas. These are often rustic sites with basic facilities, run by Conaf, which charge around CH$5000–10,000 per tent. In other parks, particularly in the south, Conaf gives licences to concessionaires, who operate campsites and cabañas, which tend to be very expensive. Some of the more remote national parks, especially in the north, have small refugios attached to the ranger stations – these are usually rustic, stone-built huts (from CH$5000 per person) containing around eight to ten bunk beds, hot showers and gas stoves. Some of them are in stunning locations, overlooking the Salar de Surire, for example, or with views across Lago Chungará to Volcán Parinacota. Sadly, however, they are increasingly unreliable.
While Chile’s handicrafts (artesanía) are nowhere near as diverse or colourful as in Peru or Bolivia, you can still find a range of beautiful souvenirs, which are usually sold in ferias artesanales (craft markets) on or near the central squares of the main towns. As for day-to-day essentials, you’ll be able to locate just about everything you need, from sun block to contact lens solution, in the main towns across the country.
Artesanía and other souvenirs
The finest and arguably most beautiful goods you can buy in Chile are the items – mainly jewellery – made of lapis lazuli, the deep-blue semi-precious stone found only in Chile and Afghanistan. The best place to buy these is in Bellavista, Santiago: note that the deeper the colour of the stone, the better its quality. Though certainly less expensive than lapis exports sold abroad, they’re still pricey.
Most artesanía is considerably less expensive. In the Norte Grande, the most common articles are alpaca sweaters, gloves and scarves, which you’ll find in altiplano villages like Parinacota, or in Arica and Iquique. The quality is usually fairly low, but they’re inexpensive and very attractive all the same. In the Norte Chico, you can pick up some beautiful leather goods, particularly in the crafts markets of La Serena. You might also be tempted to buy a bottle of pisco there, so that you can recreate that pisco sour experience back home – though you’re probably better off getting it at a supermarket in Santiago before you leave, to save yourself carting it about. The Central Valley, as the agricultural heartland of Chile, is famous for its huaso gear, and you’ll find brightly coloured ponchos and stiff straw hats in the numerous working huaso shops. The highlight in the Lake District is the traditional Mapuche silver jewellery, while the far south is a good place to buy chunky, colourful knitwear.
A range of these goods can also be bought in the major crafts markets in Santiago, notably Los Dominicos market. Also worth checking out are Santiago’s little flea markets.
Hard haggling is neither commonly practised nor expected in Chile, though a bit of bargaining is in order at many markets. It’s also worth trying to bargain down the price of hotel rooms, especially outside the peak months of January and February.
Top image © Erlantz P.R/Shutterstock
