Until a century ago the area south of the Civic Center, Bunker Hill, was LA’s most elegant neighbourhood, but after a half-century of decay, 1960s urban renewal transformed it into the imperious Financial District, with colossal new towers. At the base of the towering Wells Fargo Center at 333 S Grand Ave sits the Wells Fargo History Museum charting the history of Wells Fargo & Co, the banking colossus that was founded in Gold Rush California, with old mining equipment, antiques, photographs, a two-pound chunk of gold, a re-created assay office from the nineteenth century and a simulated stagecoach journey from St Louis to San Francisco. Two blocks south at 633 W 5th St, the US Bank Tower (1018ft), completed in 1989, is still the tallest building on the West Coast.

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