Food, fuel and lodgings are found at between 40- and 80km intervals, though cars still need to be in good shape. You should drive with headlights on at all times and take care when passing – or being passed by – heavy trucks. The wilderness – anything up to 800km of it on each side – begins at the highway’s edge and unless you’re very experienced, off-road exploration is not suggested. Free guides and pamphlets are available at visitor centres along the route through to Fairbanks, but The Milepost (w, the road’s bible, is, for all its mind-numbing detail, the only one you need buy.

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