There’s not much else along the stretch of coast north of Benicàssim until you reach PEÑÍSCOLA, 60km away. The setting is one of Spain’s most stunning: a heavily fortified promontory jutting out into the Mediterranean, zealously shielding its warren of alleys and lanes with perfectly preserved medieval walls. Yet it’s also one of the starkest – immediately below the old walls, the requisite line of eyesore high-rises snakes out along the seafront like a besieging army.

The breezy Paseo Marítimo is a pleasant place from which to take in views of the sea, and the resort’s slender beach is well kept, if busy. The farther north you get from the castle, the quieter it becomes. There’s also a smaller cove beach, Playa Sur, 200m west of the old town.

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