There’s more of the almost absurdly picturesque Río Duero scenery at EL BURGO DE OSMA, once a very grand place boasting both cathedral and university. Today, there are gleaming town walls, a lovely riverside promenade and ancient colonnaded streets overhung by houses supported on precarious wooden props. It’s quaint and gorgeous in equal measure, and while the dominant cathedral is the only actual sight, the town rewards a leisurely stroll up the arcaded main street to Plaza Mayor. On summer nights, as the temperature drops, the families of El Burgo use the main square, with its cafés and tree-shaded benches, as playground, exercise yard and social club. Out of town, there are easy drives to all sorts of fascinating destinations, from canyon park to mighty fortress, which makes El Burgo well worth a night’s stay.

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