The Aragonese plains are dotted with reminders of the Moorish occupation, and nowhere more so than at TARAZONA, a wonderfully atmospheric old town loaded with Mudéjar architecture. If you’re en route to Soria or Burgos, it’s an ideal place to break the journey. Don’t miss out, either, on the tranquil Cistercian monastery of Veruela, 15km southeast.

Tarazona’s most absorbing sights lie in the old upper town, incorporating the Judería and Morería (Jewish and Moorish quarters, respectively), which stands on a hill overlooking the river, with medieval houses and mansions lining the callejas and pasadizos – the lanes and alleyways.

If you’re around for the fiesta on August 27, watch out for “El Cipotegato” (wcipotegato.com), a luckless character dressed in jester-like red, green and yellow stripy pyjamas who runs through the streets while everyone pelts him with tomatoes. He kicks off the town’s annual week-long festivities, during which there are street parties, live music and bullfights.

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