Like Tarazona, Calatayud is a town of Moorish foundation with some stunning Mudéjar towers. It’s worth climbing up to the old upper town where, amid a maze of alleys, stand the church of San Andrés (generally closed; enquire at turismo) and Colegiata de Santa María (closed for renovations) both of which have ornate Mudéjar towers. Santa María, the collegiate church, also has a beautifully decorative Plateresque doorway, while towards the river, at c/Valentín Gómez 3, San Juan el Real (daily 10am–1pm & 4–8pm; free) features paintings attributed to the young Goya. The ruins of a Moorish castle (open access; free) survive on high ground at the opposite end of town from the train station. The views from here are lovely, and you can walk around the evocative ruins and parts of the city wall.

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