About 5km from Ribčev Laz at the western end of the lake is the hamlet of Ukanc (sometimes referred to as Zlatorog), where a cable car whizzes you vertiginously up to the summit of Mount Vogel (1540m) in no time – if the Alps look dramatic from the lakeside, from Vogel’s summit they’re breathtaking. Ukanc is also the starting point for a one-hour walk north to the photogenic Savica Waterfalls. From here, the serious hiking can commence, either as a day-trip to the Valley of the Seven Lakes – an area strewn with eerie boulders and hardy firs – or as an expedition to scale Mount Triglav itself.

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