Shadowing the city to the south are the low rolling hills of the Fruška Gora, once an island in the now evaporated Pannonian Sea. These days, its orchards and vineyards comprise a national park carved up by a web of simple hiking trails. The hills – known among devotees as the Holy Mountain – also house sixteen monasteries (there were once 35). About 15km south of Novi Sad, just off the main road before the village of Irig, is Novo Hopovo, where a Byzantine church is housed within a picturesque monastery. Not far off are two more sixteenth-century monastic churches: elegant white Krušedol and Vrdnik-Ravanica, which has Tsar Lazar’s collarbone on display. Note that it’s nigh-on impossible to access the monasteries without a car.

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