The main street leading south from Kalemegdan is Kneza Mihailova, a pedestrianized korzo (promenade) with narrow, pretty fronts. It becomes more commercialized and hulkish at its southern end as it approaches Trg Republike (Republic Square), the city’s main square. An irregularly shaped space, it’s dominated by the imperious National Museum (which has remained closed for years awaiting renovation), in front of which is a grand statue of Prince Mihailo on horseback – this is the traditional meeting place for Belgraders.

East of Trg Republike is Skadarlija, the former bohemian district that centres on charming, cobbled Skadarska. South of Trg Republike is the wide swathe of Terazije, which slices through the commercial and business hub of the city.

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