Inland of Šibenik lies one of the most spellbinding landscapes in Croatia, with a canyon-bound sequence of gorges, lakes and rapids marking the progress of the River Krka towards the sea. Falling under the protection of the Krka National Park, the stretch of the Krka valley between the towns of Knin and Skradin, 12km out from Šibenik, is visited by almost three quarters of a million trippers per year. The huge majority of these visitors gravitate towards Skradinski buk, a sequence of waterfalls and cataracts just above Skradin. The upper reaches of the river are much less swamped by crowds, although there’s a good deal worth seeing here, including two historic monasteries and another stretch of falls at Roški slap – all of which are accessible by national park-operated excursion boats. Travelling by car, you can combine visits to Skradinski buk and Roški slap with a stop-off at the former Roman legionary camp at Burnum just to the west.