Heading southeast from Rijeka takes you along one of the most exhilarating stretches of the Adriatic coast, with rocky highlands hovering above deeply indented bays, and bewitchingly stark grey-brown islands looming across the water. Long-standing beach resorts such as Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski are pleasant enough to merit a brief stop-off, but insufficiently compelling to justify an overnight stay. SENJ, a somewhat gritty little town of twisting alleyways, boasts an imposing fortress and is also a good base from which to explore the Northern Velebit National Park. The main focus of the town is Pavlinski trg, the harbourfront square, dotted with café tables, behind which lies a warren of alleyways and smaller piazzas.

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